An English teacher from Boston spends two weeks with her husband in one of our London flats each summer. She says that all her own children are gone, so she went back to teach Advanced Placement English students in her local high school. I chuckled when she told me that she had been teaching THE MAYOR OF CASTERBRIDGE, HEART OF DARKNESS, HAMLET, MOBY DICK, OTHELLO, OF HUMAN BONDAGE, MADAME BOVARY, MOBY DICK, and THE GRAPES OF WRATH. Pretty heavy going, I would say! But she loves the books passionately and has developed an amazing following of students whose older brothers and sisters have benefited significantly from Cristy’s class.
In the fall of this year, she contacted me to see if I would help her put together a ten-day London trip for her best students. Boy, this is my kind of teacher! I asked her how many students; she said about 12 students and three mothers for ten days. We picked out four large flats for the group and put one parent in each accommodation. In early November, Cristy contacted me to help her put together a worthwhile yet fun itinerary. I told her that I have five children and I took my children and their friends to London at Valentines each year for five years. It became a real tradition in the area where I live, and I explained to her which activities went over successfully. I divided each day with “hard work” visits in the morning like important exhibitions at the Victoria and Albert and “fun activities” in the afternoon like THE LONDON EYE. I told her to keep the day full, organized, and “on the march” or she would lose interest in doing another trip because of wandering-off lads. When I saw a good student dragging, I knew I was doing my job. Adults can pace themselves while students have these immense surges of energy only to collapse and die moments later. So, here is one of the tours I conducted and loved.
The students could take one medium size case– duffle bag preferred. They had to be able to carry it themselves as there would be no porters. My wife gave the girls a packing list which dismayed these beautifully groomed American girls. Levis and sweat shirts were perfect for the boys with one pair of slacks and a nice sweater. Boys were always so much easier when it came to accepting luggage restrictions. I TOLD ALL OF THEM THAT THEY WOULD HAVE WASHING MACHINES IN THEIR APARTMENTS–they never figured out the washer/dryers and instead spot cleaned their levis and just turned inside-out their sweat shirts when a floppy drip landed on their shirt. The key was to keep them so busy that a little stain here or there didn’t matter.
Upon arrival the first day, I got them into their flats and told them to have a shower and take a one hour nap–but no longer. I had learned that a good start was really important, and the first night they needed to get to sleep. Well, once students 17/18 hit the beds, they just pass out. So, the parents got them up gradually with a big glass of juice and some warm soup. This was the orientation afternoon ON FOOT. We got tube passes and took the train to Tower Hill, the far east end of London. We were just doing an orientation tour, so we got there just as it was getting dark and all the ramparts of the Tower of London were just being lighted. We talked about why it got dark so early in the day before we talked about the Normans and their fortresses all along the Thames to safeguard their new strongholds. We then walked to St. Paul’s Cathedral to see it lighted at night; I tried to get them all excited about Sir Christopher Wren and Ben Jonson for our return visit later in the week. By then, most of the students realized that their first night’s walk was a DEATH MARCH–with good reason ! We finally got to Trafalgar Square where we went to eat a spaghetti dinner at The Spaghetti House next to Chando’s Pub. I knew this meal was important, so I loaded them up with soup, salad, and a good dish of pasta. We left the restaurant, and I marched them up the front stairs of the National Gallery to see the most beautiful perspective: The Houses of Parliament in the distance and Nelson’s Column right in front of them. I reached in my pocket and read to them the closing paragraph of OF HUMAN BONDAGE where the main character Philip stands on this same spot and describes his life as AND THE SUN WAS SHINING. I wanted to bring life to the books they had been reading, and they stood absolutely still as I read the passage. We were all moved and rewarded. We finally wandered across Trafalgar Square and up the Mall to Buckingham Palace, but not before we stood in front of the fabulous equestrian sculpture of Charles I at the head of Whitehall–the only equestrian sculpture to elude Cromwell. Along the Mall, I pointed out Queen Mary’s home at Marlborough House, the Queen Mother’s home at Clarence House –this was before Charles’s moving in, and on to Buckingham Palace. I told them that this is where the last King of America lived. That made them think. By then, we were all exhausted, and IT WAS VERY EASY TO GET THEM TO GO TO SLEEP. They were dead tired.
The second day, we headed to the British Museum. The MAGNA CARTA was there in those days. I took them there because I wanted them to see this foundation of established law which has influenced all Western Societies for nearly a thousand years. We saw the Rosetta Stone and on to the ELGIN MARBLES. Without exception, the Elgin Marbles stunned them as they walked into this glorious setting. We talked about Greece and mankind’s progress toward a refined culture and political thought. Stunning. There is a great sandwich shop just outside the museum, and we filled up with PRET A MANGER sandwiches. We headed toward Westminster Pier to take the boat to Greenwich to see “where time begins.” They loved the boat ride, but were cold at the end. So, I had three of our drivers meet us at the Queen’s House Greenwich and bring us back to London in a warm cab. We all had a nice nap, and then we headed to the Hard Rock Cafe because they love the music no matter what I said or did. Then, we left for the theater. In those days, PHANTOM OF THE OPERA was their first choice. They loved it, and it was a full day. No nonsense when we got back to our apartments, I assure you.
The next morning we were on the Tube heading for the TOWER OF LONDON. We arrived early to avoid crowds which were rare this time of the year. I took them immediately to the Jewel House so we could be there almost alone to stand on the upper levels and talk about the history of these amazing jewels. I knew the history of most of the great pieces, and the students were dazzled by their size and beauty. One young man who happened to be my son said he couldn’t see the STAR OF AFRICA –500 + carats. He thought of diamonds as much smaller stones. This one was so large he couldn’t see it ! All the students had the chronology of the Kings and Queens of England in their pockets on cards. They were with me all the way. Then we walked outside, and I turned them over to the Beef Eaters; I wasn’t going to try to match their performance. As we walked away on one visit, one of the young students named Joel Christensen said: ”Pretty bloody place.” That led to a lot of stories. We ate hot dogs outside the Tower–just good old hot dogs covered in onions. THEY TASTED SO SO GOOD, and I bought as many as they could eat. I took them round behind the entrance to ALL HALLOWS CHURCH where William Penn was blessed and James Madison was married. The second night we tried to do a classical play. I knew what the schedules were, so I tried to catch Shakespeare–a play they had read and knew from school. As I remember it, HAMLET, MACBETH, AND MERCHANT OF VENICE were always being performed somewhere.
The next day was the train from Paddington to Slough to transfer to the train to Windsor. They loved the Tube, the train, but when they arrived at WINDSOR CASTLE, their mouths fell open. I told them all the history I could remember, and I walked them around it as far as possible. We went inside where most of the castle is open before the mobs arrive in the summer. The paintings, the china, the rugs, the carving, the banners, and all the military memorabilia were fascinating. When they saw Napoleon’s Cape which the Duke of Wellington found in fleeing Napoleon’s carriage, history really began to come in focus. This day was an incredible experience for these young people. I saw to it that it was. This was a history lesson, but not out of a text book. That evening, we always went to St. Martin in-the-fields for a classical concert. When I told them we were going to hear a Baroque concert, inevitably their eyes began to roll. But, I can report that sitting in the church where Monroe, Franklin, Madison, Jefferson all attended church while on diplomatic missions, they decided to give it a chance. I can’t say they came around totally that night, but they knew they had heard something rather special.
I will tell you about the rest of the trip in tomorrow’s post. I think you have read enough for one posting.
Talk to you tomorrow.
Tom
http://www.londonconnection.com
17 FEBRUARY, 2010 Continuing
ON THE FIFTH DAY, I felt it was ART DAY. I have spent years trying to teach young people to enjoy fine paintings. I have taken them to galleries and given them the tours. I have talked about the “history” of art and all about great artists. I learned early on that young people who come from homes where they have been taught to live with family paintings and were taken to symphonies and concerts enjoy museums and galleries and don’t fight the experience. Before I take young people to the great galleries, I walk them by art shops, have them talk to the street painters, and help them talk about color and images. I really enjoy watching young people become curious. They will one day put something on their walls, so why not get exposed young. The day in the galleries, I tell my children and their friends that I will take them to stand before ten masterpieces. I tell them that I am trying to get them to talk about what they see. Usually, it is an easy dialog as long as it doesn’t go on too long. In the National Gallery, they all love Stubb’s GREAT HORSE. They like VanGogh because those images are familiar to them. Then I take them to the DaVinci CARTOON which is so moving that no one has anything but awe for such an image. I usually take them to see a winter scene by Vermeer which no one resists. Then, I tell them that I want them to find their favorite painting and write a paragraph for me telling me why the image appeals to them. I tell them that I will buy the poster of the painting they choose for their walls, so it becomes a serious search for them. When I realize that WE HAVE HAD ENOUGH, we grab a kebab on the run and head off to Covent Garden to check out the street painters or to Trafalgar Square to see who is painting there. I tell my children and their friends that I have bought some of my favorite images that hang on my walls from London street artists. I make it an ART DAY. The evening is always theatre. It is a full day, for sure
ON THE SIXTH DAY, IT WAS PORTOBELLO AND KNIGHTSBRIDGE DAY. On Saturday morning, all the young people got up early–not an easy thing to do for exhausted teenagers who sleep like sand-beached whales with legs and arms hanging off all sides of the bed. We are off to Portobello Road. I introduce them to THE PEWTER LADY, Mrs. Kasdan, and to the shop where wonderful 18th brass can be found. We talk about pick-pockets, and reproductions. The young people are thrilled to be in a setting where every European language is heard–at full volume. It seemed like the Italian visitors were buying all the old fur coats, all the Japanese visitors were looking for good jewelry, and the Americans were just having fun with with a chocolate crepe in one hand. The young people buy a simple souvenir, and it is really fun. I take them to Harrods and Harvey Nichols in Knightsbdridge on the way home. They are always flabbergasted when they check out the prices in Harrods. But, what is important for young people to realize is the world economies are very different. We go to the Globe or St. Martin in-the-fields in the evening. I have to keep food in their systems or they run out steam early on. It is like running a cement mixer twenty-four hours a day. They could eat 2 dozen almond croissants in one breath–but they had a smile on their faces, and that is what counted for me. I loved these kids.
THE SEVENTH DAY, WAS WESTMINSTER ABBEY SERVICES AND FREE TIME. On Sunday morning, I take the group to Westminster to hear the choir boys. MATINS and a short sermon. They hear the organ, feel the magnificence of the Abbey, and experience history in stone. We go to a great meal, spend a couple of hours relaxing and lounging around Trafalgar Square. Usually, they remember something they would to buy or go back to. Packing, good sleep, and getting ready to return home the next day. Often one or two of the students wanted to attend a church service of their own faith, and I happily joined them.
I love to travel with young people and first-time visitors to London. I love standing in Trafalgar Square and walking up the Mall. But, I love doing it with a young group who have never been in London before. It gives me a buzz. Many of these young people have lived in families where a packing trip or a trip to Disneyland was the extent of their family’s imaginations. I told a student once that his parents would do better for their children if they took them on a vacation to a library or to a book store to get a book; I don’t think that made much of an impression. There were always those students, however, who came with a school novel and used every free minute enjoying a great read. That thrilled me.
I REALLY HOPE CRISTY’S GROUP IS HAVING FUN, AND I HOPE MY TRIPS WITH YOUNG PEOPLE WILL GIVE YOU SOME IDEAS. NEVER TRAVEL IN GROUPS LARGER THAN 12 PEOPLE . NEVER ! NEVER ! Moving people around in large groups destroys the spontaneity that you want to encourage while traveling. Besides, a cab will take 5 people; with 12 students and 3 adults, we all fit comfortably into three cabs. The young people love to chat with the cab drivers who are always full of stories and relate them with their hugely funny eastender cockney accents. Everybody has a laugh. Young people connect so quickly, and they thrive on these kinds of expeditions. I know only about 5 jokes, and I heard all of them from London cab drivers.
THANKS SO MUCH.
Thomas Moore
http://londonconnection.com
The meeting was a success, and the food was amazing. I knew so many clients of the London Connection could not be wrong. I had read Frommer’s restaurant recommendations, and their comments were as positive as the reports from our visitors. The portions were hearty. I loved their motto: EAT WELL, DRINK WELL, AND LIVE WELL. And that is exactly what we did.
SURE YOU HAVE RESTAURANTS. The restaurant has a website which details their menu and wine list. Very helpful.
It seems I am always rushing somewhere when I am walking down Fleet Street and don’t pay much attention to anything except where I am intending to go. That is unusual for me because I like to explore and often stop to read historical markers or blue plaques. I keep reminding myself to slow down and enjoy the sights. In this frame of mind, I ran into PRINCE HENRY’S ROOM on Fleet Street. Let me tell you about this serendipity.
1935 was was a year of great events for the Royal Family. King George V turned 70 years old. It was the year of his Silver Jubilee celebdrations. Queen Mary was jubilant about all these royal occasions, but the King was dying. He was weak, but he was determined to carry on. The Queen’s Christmas card that year was a wonderful hand tinted photograph of her four sons: Edward Prince of Wales, Prince Albert (later George VI), The Duke of Gloucester, and the Duke of Kent. Their son Prince John had died several years before.
Over the years, I have spent many Sunday afternoons at LOTS ROAD AUCTIONS. I may be trying to buy a sofa for a flat or a picture for a wall in a new accommodation. For whatever reason, I have had the best of times. LOTS ROAD AUCTIONS take place in a barn-type setting with people wandering all around and then flashing their cards to bid. It is all very normal, but it is such a fun thing to do for Sunday afternoon entertainment. For those traveling, small items are also auctioned.
Amazing. I have been searching for these small museums for years. How is that I could have missed this one. WELL, thanks to my readers. You are all wonderful. Keep contacting me with your discovers, and I will blog about your discoveries. Wonderful. thanks.
The Queen has figured it out–and very well! For all the years she was accused of being “out-of-touch” or “too old fashioned,” she is making up for lost time! She certainly has “the picture” now. I have huge respect for her. She sizes up a situation very carefully, and then she acts. Her timing is calculated and precise. When she figured out what it meant to be “modern,” she did it better than anyone else– while holding on to the traditions that make her Queen of the United Kingdom. Now she is playing her cards with a huge smile on her face.
