THE MOST INCREDIBLE FLAT WE HAVE EVER OFFERED !  Location !  Location !  Location ! In 30 years of offering fine properties for short lets, this property is the most amazing.  The accommodation is a fabulously converted 19th century commercial building now filled with incredible antiques and fine furnishings.  It is located just behind Jermyn Street and Piccadilly–three minute from Fortnum and Mason, Burlington Arcade, and the Royal Academy of Art.  A visitor can walk to Buckingham Palace in ten minutes.  Piccadilly Circus is up Piccadilly 8 minutes.  Sir Christopher Wren’s ST. JAMES CHURCH is three minutes from the property.  The theatres of Haymarket and Shaftesbury Avenue are 8 minutes away.  Walk down Duke of York Street to St. James’s Square and you reach the Mall with all the fine Clubs.  Pass on over Pall Mall, and you reach the Mall and Trafalgar Square.  You can walk to the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey in fifteen minutes.  ABSOLUTELY AMAZING.  The house itself is an amazing conversion to create one of the most spacious and beautiful interiors.  The house throughout is finished with glass walls, amazing lighting, high tech appliances, and glorious colours.  There is absolute privacy on each floor because the bedrooms and their en suite bathrooms are of such a size that they occupy each floor.  Six persons are easily accommodated with a possible two additional people by pre-arrangement.  One enters the building through a fine wood front door which enters into a very spacious lobby/hallway with wood floors and walls.  There is a half bathroom with sink and loo on this floor.  You go downstairs to an amazing gathering open space where the fabulous kitchen, living room, wine cellar, boot room, and library are located–filled with outside light and beautiful furnishings.  The reception room is 23 feet long with comfortable furnishings, superb paintings, beautiful chests, antique copper-brass-silver.  Two beautiful Roman marble busts placed on standing marble stands give great beauty to this room.  A portion of this room is used as the dining room where a fine, large 17th century oval table and 6/8 century Chippendale/Adams chairs add great beauty to this room.  18th century fine French chairs are seated around fine inlaid side tables and chairs.  A fantastic antique Persian rug vibrates on the floor.  The open plan kitchen has all machines:  washer/dryer, fridge/freezer, dishwasher, oven, and hobb.  The first floor is the 23 foot long bedroom with electric fireplace.  There is a queen size bed, chests, and wood floors with beautiful Persian rugs.   The bedrooom is absolutely fabulous.  there is an en suite bathroom with shower over the tub, wash hand basin, and loo.  And then the top floor bedroom which is like a solarium with French doors open on to great views;  and the glass ceiling offers absolute light.  This amazing room has 2 twin beds and wonderful views over St. James’s.  Fine bronze sculptures, contemporary and antique paintings, amazing 17th and 18th century documents, chinese prints, huge Italian engraved mirrors, silhouettes, and Chinese porcelain are found throughout the house.  This is an amazing experience for a visitor to London.  The location is PERFECT, PERFECT, and the house can house anywhere from 6-8 persons.  To live in such marvelous surroundings and space while on holiday in the heart of London is amazing.  THIS IS THE PERFECT HOUSE.  Four floors of rooms filled with beautiful objects everywhere in such a contemporary setting is enchanting.  If you are in this budget and desire such space, there is nowhere in London more inviting.  Enjoy the photos.  Nice.  (The photos of the rooms are showing as unfurnished.  As of 1 January, the great collection will be put back and the rooms will be re-photographed.  We assure you, the rooms will be fabulous!)

We see portraits of the Queen, the Duke of Edinburgh, the Prince of Wales, and now Prince William wearing the badge of THE ORDER OF THE GARTER.  We see this badge on buildings all over London.  We know there has to be a story behind this badge.

The story goes that King Edward III –Hundred Years War fame–was dancing with the Countess of Salisbury at court in 1348.  Her garter dropped, and onlookers began to snicker.  The King picked up the garter and put it on his own leg, saying:  HONIT SOIT QUI MAL Y PENSE (SHAME ON HIM FOR THINKING BADLY OF IT).

The King established the highest order of chivalry with the Sovereign, the Prince of Wales, and 25 Knights Companions.  The order is now 660 years old.  The King’s son THE BLACK PRINCE was the first Knight of the Order of the Garter, and Prince William was just last year established as the 1,000th Knight of the Order of the Garter.  WHAT AN AMAZING heritage.

26 was the number of Knights:  the Sovereign and 25 Royal Knights and appointed Knights.  The purpose of the order was to protect and swear allegiance to the Monarch.  26 knights gave two covers of 13 knights each– protecting the King from even witchcraft as well as from attempted assassinations.

This ancient ceremony is another insight into the long history of English ceremonial life.  When we see pictures of the Queen all dressed in feathers in her hat and badges on her robes, we realize that she is the symbol of this highly symbolic loyalty to the Crown.  The ORDER OF THE GARTER is a personal appointment of the Sovereign, having nothing to do with the government–maybe a light suggestion from time to time.

LIVING HISTORY, for sure.  You have to enjoy it.  It enriches the cultural life of a country and is another way of expressing national pride.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

The heroic legends of England’s history greatly interested both Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.  They hosted great fancy dress balls at Buckingham Palace where Prince Albert  appeared as RICHARD THE LIONHEART.  It was fashion.  When the new Houses of Parliament were completed,  this monumental romantic bronze was placed at the side of the old Westminster Hall at Parliament.  The bronze sculpture was done by Carlo Marchetti.

So what were the reasons Richard the Lionheart gained such fame.  He was born in 1157 in Oxford but spent his life on the Continent in Aquitaine, never learning to speak English. He lead the Third Crusade and fought in one campaign after another.  He used England as a source of revenue which he deserved as England’s king.  A reason to be placed next to Parliament?  No, perhaps not, but amusing.

He simply idealized the medieval English knight whose legend became bigger than life.  When he died, his brain was buried in Poitou, his heart in Rouen, and his body in Anjou.  How is that for honoring a hero?

The truth is he was a bad son, a miserable husband, but a gallant and splendid Medieval soldier and warrior.

RICHARD THE LIONHEART IS THE IDEALIZED ENGLISH KNIGHT.  Tales for children’s books and romantic novels and chess sets.  Nice.

Thomas Moore

htt://www.londonconnection.com

This story is funny!  Ten years ago our wonderful driver Maureen Walker was bringing clients from Gatwick Airport to our flat in St. James’s.  She was trying to keep them entertained during this ride into the city.  As she crossed the LAMBETH BRIDGE from the South Bank, she drove by Victoria Tower Gardens on her way up Whitehall.  As she passed by Rodin’s bronze THE BURGHERS OF CALAIS placed in Victoria Tower Gardens, she said:  LOOK RIGHT, THIS IS FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE AND HER NURSES.  Well, the clients later wanted to see the sculpture more closely.  So, while they were wandering around the Houses of Parliament, they went to visit the sculpture again.  When they learned the real story, they were really amused and called me:  MR. MOORE, YOU DRIVER MAUREEN WALKER IS FANTASTIC BUT HER GUIDING SKILLS ARE QUESTIONABLE.  He then told me what had happened.  We both had a good laugh and loved Maureen even more for her efforts to entertain.

So, what is the story?

Rodin was commissioned by the French government to create in bronze the story of the city of Calais’s defeat in 1347 during the Hundred Years War.  Edward III, King of England, agreed to end the siege of the Calais if 5/6 Burghers of the highest social level came out of the City walls nude, with a cord around the neck, with the keys of the city in their hands.

The bronze sculpture of Robin captures the story at this point in the saga.

Edward III intended to kill these burghers, but his wife was pregnant with child and felt that killing the community leaders of Calais was a bad omen and would affect the outcome of her pregnancy.  Edward III spared their lives.

Rodin received the commission in 1889 and was restricted to 12 strikes of this bronze.  Parliament bought one monument and placed it in Victoria Tower Gardens. It is the only monument of a defeat commissioned by the French government, but we have to understand that France had just been defeated in the Franco-Prussian War when this monument was commissioned and could have modern implications.

For the English, it was a monument to the Victory in the Hundred Year’s War, but also a symbol of the King’s mercy.

BUT IT HAD NOTHING TO DO WITH FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE.

Isn’t this a fun story?

Thank you,

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

Mrs. Moore and I are off to London on 11 December for a couple of months.  We are listening to your suggetions that we find posted on this blog site.

Please take some time and tell us of experiences that have worked for you.  We will really enjoy hearing from you.

Likewise, we invite you to come along with us via this blog.  We will keep you up on events which are enjoying with the hopes that we will find experiences which will assist you all in your planning.

I INVITE YOU TO GIVE US SUGGESTIONS, AND I INVITE YOU TO JOIN US VIA THIS BOG AS WE ENJOY LONDON.  HOPEFULLY, IT WILL BE A LOT OF FUN.

Thanks

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

I was amused yesterday by a reader who thought I should think about some creative or very imaginative activities in London.  I realize I come from a more classical background but am open to others’ activities in the city.

When I asked the reader–whom I enjoyed very much– what he was proposing, he said he would send me a suggestion.  When his “suggestion” arrived, I was really amused and thought other readers would be amused as well.

I am posting his suggestion and hope you enjoy it.  The setting is TOWER BRIDGE, but seen in a very unusual way.  Yikes.

Wandering around is the way to find new discoveries.  I walked from Tower Hill to All Hallows by the Tower where I ran into a couple who were coming to the Tower of London from St. Paul’s Cathedral.  During their exploration, they had passed by St. Mary-le-Bow Church, the Temple of Mithras , Church of St. Stephen Walbrook, THE MONUMENT, and then St. Margaret Pattens Church, and finally to All Hallows where I was visiting the Crypt.

During this visit, the couple suggested I visit St. Margaret Pattens Church.  I followed their suggestion, and am glad I did.

First, I did not know what PATTENS meant.  An elderly gentleman was in the Church who explained to me that in the 1500/1600′s, ladies of position wore PATTENS which were wood or metal second shoes which were used go over the dress show to raise the foot above the mud on the streets to save their fine foot wear.  They were originally wood with straps that tied over the top of the main shoes.  Later, they were covered in fabric to match the proper shoe and became very elegant.

In early churches, there was often a posted sign that said REMOVE YOUR PETTENS.  Now, what do PATTENS have to do with the Church of St. Margaret?

There has been a church dedicated to St. Margaret of Antioch in Eastcheap for 900 years.  The earliest wood church was built in 1067 and was replaced by a new Church in 1538.  The Church was destroyed  in the Great Fire of London in 1666–you can imagine Samuel Pepys watching London burn from the nearby tower of All Hallows Church.

Sir Christopher Wren was the architect for the new St. Margaret’s Church in 1684-1687.  It was named St. Margarets Pattens because there were seven other St. Margarets churches in London, so this church was distinguished by the addition of the name PATTENS because a popular patten maker’s shop was built against the wall of the church.  So, there you have it:  ST. MARGARET’S PATTENS.

The Church was badly damaged during World War II but was completely restored in 1956–Another Sir Christopher Wren’s Church saved.

When you  are inside the Church,  you will see Wren everywhere.  If you know St. Martin in-the-fields by Gibbs, you will notice similar architectural details:  ceilings, windows, plan–typical of the period.

Do visit ST. MARGARET PATTENS.  I really enjoyed it.   I like finding new buildings with great history;  it gives me a great feeling about this ancient city.  I then walked on to THE MONUMENT and back home in St. James’s.  Nice

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

ALL HALLOWS BY THE TOWER is believed to be the oldest church in London.  When you visit the TOWER OF LONDON, walk up the hill a short distance to a 673 AD Saxon Abbey which was built on a Roman foundation — a Roman site 2000 years old.

The church’s proximity to the Tower of London meant royal connections and temporary burial sites for those executed on the block at the Tower of London–to be buried later elsewhere.

The church was saved in the Great Fire of London in 1666 when Admiral William Penn demolished the houses nearby, creating a fire wall.  The Church survived to become a church to attract personalities in later generations who had great connections to the American colonies.

Samuel Pepys recorded the Great fire of London from the spire of this Church–PEPYS DIARY.  In 1644 William Penn of Pennsylvania fame was baptized in the famous font, and Albert Schweitzer recorded several famous organ concerts in this Church.

The Church took several hits during the Blitz;  after the war, with the help of Queen Mary, the Church was restored to again become a destination for Londoners.  The restoration of the old organ was a particular interest to the old Queen.

I like to go to this Church when I am wander around the Tower of London because of its history, its American connections, but also because of its small museum and brass rubbing facilities when I am there with my grandchildren.  (ST. MARTIN IN THE FIELDS IS ALSO AN EXCELLENT PLACE FOR BRASS RUBBINGS)

While you are at the Tower of London, the Church is only a short walk.  With all its ties to our history as well as to English history, it is a good place to have a rest and think of the great age of this building–over a thousand years.

Nice

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

Apsley House is one of the last great London aristocratic houses still standing.  It has been the residence of the DUKE OF WELLINGTON for two hundred years.  The residence has the name of NO. 1 LONDON because it is the first house as you come into London from Knightsbridge, positioned on Hyde Park Corner.

The house was originally red brick and designed and built by Robert Adams between 1771 and 1778 for Lord Apsley, the brother of the Duke of Wellington.  In 1807, Lord Apsley sold the house to his famous brother, now the Duke of Wellington, who had the house refaced in Bath stone and had the Watterloo Gallery and front columns and portico added.

After the defeat of Napoleon, the house was decorated with gifts of gratitude to the Duke:  silver plateau from the King of Portugal, fine paintings, and wonderful china.  The house quickly  filled with paintings by Goya, Velasquez, Brueghel, etc., until it began to take on the appearance of a museum.  Apsley House is also called the Wellington Museum in modern times because of the vast collection centering around the victory at Waterloo.

One amusing object in the collection is the famous nude larger-than-life marble statue of Napoleon.  This marble sculpture was the work of Canova who completed the work in 1810, the height of the Napoleonic Era.  Napoleon detested the nude sculpture and sent it to the Louvre, out of his way.  After the defeat of Napoleon, the statue was bought by Parliament and given as a gift to the Duke of Wellington who stuck it in his stairwell.  TO THE VICTOR GOES THE……….   Well, I don’t know about that one.  But anyway, there it is and certainly worth a visit with a grin.

A bit of trivia here!  At the outbreak of World War II, King George VI and Queen Elizabeth heard that the Wellington Collection was still in  Apsley House with no where to go.  The story goes that the Royal couple hired a van and had the collection taken to the Royal residence at Frogmore House for safety in case of a bomb direct hit on Apsley House.   After all, Buckingham Palace had been hit six times.  After the war, the collection was returned to Apsley House where the current Duke of Wellington retained an apartment in the house while giving the residence to the Nation as the Wellington Museum.

Visitors to London should consider Apsley House as a major site to visit.  The paintings are wonderful, the Napoleon sculpture is amusing, but the immense collection of porcelain and Waterloo memorabilia which was given to the Duke by the various victorious nations is a must to see. The Duke of Wellington became intimately involed in politics after the defeat of Napoleon and became a close friend to Queen Victoria and Prince Albert.  In fact, the Duke became a godfather to some of the Queen’s children.

These days, the single house sitting out on Hyde Park Corner looks grand, but isolated and rather lonely.  Originally, there was a row of great houses–Apsley House being the first in the line-up– which was all taken down to widen Park Lane in the early years of the 20th century.

Don’t miss the visit.  It is a fantastic museum.

Keep an eye out for the blog I am writing about how Baron Rothschild was involved in the Battle of Waterloo from London.  Really fascinating and another wonderful bit of trivia.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

THE ELGIN MARBLES in the British Museum is an amazing experience.  I remember the first time I went to see them; I was not prepared.  But once I walked into the Lord Duveen Gallery where these spectacular sculptures are, I knew I was out-of-my-league. I knew what I was seeing was something magnificent and very important.  I walked back to the little book shop in the British Museum and bought a pamphlet about the Elgin Marbles and returned to the Gallery.  I read the booklet as I wandered piece by piece down the Gallery.  I knew I was hooked and eager to dig deeper.

The collection of sculptures was acquired by Lord Elgin when he was British ambassador to the Ottaman Court of the Sultan in Istanbul.  The Sultan cared not at all for Greek art and needed British support more than he needed the sculptures from the Acropolis.  So the Marbles were acquired between 1801 and 1805.  Parliament bought the collection from Lord Elgin and placed them in the British Museum in 1816.

The Gallery has 247 feet of the original 524 feet of the freeze – Contemporary Athens scenes

The Gallery has 15 of the 92 Metopes – Greek Mythology subject

The Gallery has 17 figures of the pediments – Greek Mythology subject

Some of the Elgin Marbles were added to this collection after the Elgin collection was in England.  It was purchased from other collectors and museums from around Europe.

There is a great debate going on to determine if the entire collection should be returned to Athens.  Hm.

If you have not seen the Elgin Marbles in the British Museum, I encourage you to go.  If you are planning to visit, be sure that you do some reading before you go.  It is so much more meaningful

IT IS MAGNIFICENT TO SEE COLD MARBLE BECOME FLESH AND DRAPERY.  This is what engrossed Michelangelo and the sculptors of the Renaissance.

Fabulous.

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

NEAL’S Yard is the most wonderful source for English cheeses.  I have known Neal’s shop at 17 Shorts Gardens, London WC2 in Covent Garden for years.  I have sent their parcels home to friends for gifts and have chosen a few new cheeses for each of my visits.  020.7240.5700

There is a second NEAL’S YARD at 6 Park Street, London SE1 at the Borough Market near the Southwark Cathedral.  Phone 020.7367.0799

But this morning, I learned from a friend who invited me to go to a cheese testing party a NEAL’S YARD at the Borough Market.  Unforunately, they are inviting me for early December, and I will not arrive in London until 12 December.  Dang it!

But, I wanted to make my readers aware of this fun opportunity to taste cheese and have the cheese explained by a world famous expert:   Chris George.  If you wish to arrange a “participation,”  you have to make reservations long in advance by calling 020.7500.7662.

Goodness what a fun thing.  I will plan on doing this while I am in London soon.  I will let you know how it went.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL (pronouced SUTHARK) on the South Bank near Tower Bridge  has just undergone major restoration to become  a major London attraction.  With the re-building of the GLOBE nearby, there is new interest with tourists to come to this ancient area of London.  SOUTHWARK CATHEDRAL is one of the main attractions.

The Cathedral and Collegiate Church of St. Saviour and St. Mary Overie is the Anglican Diocese of Southwark.  There has been a Christian place of worship on this site for one thousand years.  It has been a cathedral since 1905.  There is a reference to the Christian site in the  Domesday Book 1086.

The Cathedral is built in Gothic style –1220-1420–and is the oldest Gothic building in London.  John Harvard who established Harvard University was baptized here in 1607.  There is a memorial to William Shakespeare–even a memorial window.  Shakespeare’s actor brother EDMUND SHAKESPEARE is buried here. Please enjoy the engraving I am posting here of Southward Cathedral and London Bridge with all the bridge shops – 1616.  What a vital place it must have been–Southwark.

I have been to Southwark Cathedral only once, and I am going again in December.  It will be gloriously decorated for Christmas, and the music will be wonderful.  I am anxious to visit.  In fact I am eager.  Shakespeare in church in a pew?  Maybe not, but he was certainly nearby.  Wonderful.  I will wander over to the Globe and take some new photos and pay homage.

Friends have told me that Borough Market is nearby and  is an outstanding food market, really nicely presented and lots of activity.   Oh my, I love these markets, and I love to talk to the stall keepers;  they have so much tell you about the inner workings of London.  Take their photos and have a chat with them.  It will be rewarding.

OH, I am going.  i will tell you how it goes.

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

COVENT GARDEN IS THE CENTER OF IT ALL.  To some, it is the center of the universe:  theatre, restaurants, clubs, galleries, book shops, flowers, the Royal House, poster shops, Cecil Court, the National Opera, antique markets, Jubilee Market, Rules Restaurant, jugglers, buskers, on and on.

Covent Garden is the walking district of the town.  Everything is in easy reach.  It is the great social gathering place for the young and for the young-at-heart.  This wonderful mingling of people creates an atmosphere like no other part of London.

We have just taken on a flat which is ideal.  It is on St. Martin’s Lane, very close to the Leicester Square Tube Station and a five minute walk to the center of Covent Garden Square.  Trafalgar Square is 5 minutes away;  the National Opera is three minutes away.  If you are planning to attend an evening concert at St. Martin-in-the-Fields, you will be in your seat in 5 minutes.  If you like Chinese food in China Town, you can be sipping your tea and eating your shrimp fried rice in about eight minutes. Buckingham Palace and a walk down the Mall is only 10 minutes to the Mall and five minutes further  on to the palace itself.  For me, Covent Garden has it all.

This flat we are offering is on the third floor of a portered building.  St. Martin’s Lane is a small street, and the traffic is one way.  The lounge is very contemporary and nicely done.  It benefits from a wall of windows assuring good light.  There is comfortable seating, flat screen TV in a modern setting–very nice.  There is a dining area for four persons.

The kitchen is nice size and well equipped with microwave, washer/dryer/ dishwasher/fridge/freezer.  There are two double bedrooms.

The master bedroom has a queen size bed, good closet space, and an en suite bathroom.  The bathroom has a shower stall finished in marble, wash hand basin, and loo.  The second bedroom has a double bed, good storage.  The second bathroom for the second bedroom has a tub with installed shower over the tub, wash hand basin, and loo.  The beautiful thing about the bedrooms is they are to the back of the building, away from the street and the all-active  world outside.  The large lounge can easily sleep one person, making one of the bedrooms available to a fifth person or to one of the double bedrooms where a visitor chooses to sleep solo.

On a personal note, we have a second 2-bedroom flat in this building.  When I am in London and my own home is booked elsewhere, I choose to stay here.  I find it so convenient and suitable to a good stay in London.  I say this because I would not encourage you or offer to you a property where I myself would not stay.  And, I love these two flats.  They are just perfect.

This is an excellent property, and I highly recommend it.  You can walk down Cecil Court and wander in the shops along the Court–only 3 minutes away.  Bella Pasta on the corner, and Brown’s Restaurant right across the street.  IT IS PERFECT.  We are currently running an introductory price of $259 US Dollars per night all inclusive.

Give me a call, and I will tell you about my experiences staying in this flat.

Thanks,

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

Several years ago, I was in London with my two oldest daughters.  We were wandering around the area where the GLOBE used to be (not then restored).  We were hungry and found the THE GEORGE INN.  The food was fantastic, and the history of the establishent was very interesting.  We had a great chat about Shakespeare and the times he lived.

The old galleried inn is now a pub and restaurant.  It has its historical roots  into the early 16th century when it was called the GEORGE AND DRAGON after St. George and the Dragon tales.  Because of its proximity to the GLOBE, it is believed that Shakespeare was a frequent visitor for a pint or two with his theatre mates.  The old inn has atmosphere that evokes all those old images of theater on the South Bank with players and drama enriching the Tudor and early Stuart periods.  You can still hear the poetic verses and players bantering back and forth as the ale flowed freely.  What an amazing age recreated.

In the 17th and 18th centuries, the INN became a coaching inn for those traveling to London.  It was actually the terminal.  So, when you are at the Globe or just walking around this very historical area, search for Shakespeare, stop by the GEORGE INN, and have a hot pub lunch.  Our meal was fantastic.  I am leaving for England in early December, and I am making a point of revisiting this historical London coaching in–the only one left in greater London.

THE GEORGE INN, George Inn Yard, 77 Borough High Street, London SE1 1NH   Phone:  0207.407.2056

I just called the GEORGE.  Pub lunches are from 12 noon until 5:00 pm.  Restaurant hours are 5:00 pm until 9:30 pm

FANTASTIC TRADITIONAL ENGLISH FOOD.   I remember the roast beef and Yorkshire pudding.  Oh, it makes me hungry.

I can’t wait to have a meal–AND AT CHRISTMAS TIME.   Nice.

Good eating to you all!  Let me know how your meals were when you return home.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

QUEEN VICTORIA loved her pets, but she was a dog lover most of all.  Her diary reveals that after her coronation in 1938, she came home to Buckingham Palace and gave her dog DASH a bath.  The old Queen turned to her dogs for companionship and affection throughout her life.  Her mother, The Duchess of Kent, knew of her daughter’s love for her dogs so for a 17th birthday present, the Duchess commissioned Landseer to paint a portrait of  the young Queen’s favorite dog DASH.  The portrait is a favorite in the Royal Collection.  An entire world of animal portraits emerged and became subjects for fashionable social portraits during the Victorian era.  Until this time, animals were subjects in hunting scenes rather than subjects in social portraiture.

During Victorian times, the fashionable dog was the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel–probably due to the Queen’s affection for the breed.    These loving pets were everywhere in Victorian life.  The little spaniels slept in their beds in shop windows, by the firesides in London homes, and on fashionable walks in London.    Years ago, we used to visit friends in Bridport whose lives revolved around their Cavaliers Mandy and Lavander who endlessly played in the garden, snuggled in the evenings, and often crawled under your covers.  And while the Queen prefers the corgi, Princess Margaret loved her Cavaliers.

When I was in London last September, I was walking down Cecil Court, turned the corner on to Charing Cross Road, and there they were!  Two ladies were having afternon coffee with their King Charles on their laps.  There is nothing like the affection of the English for their dogs.  I grabbed my camera and asked to take a picture.  The owner straightened the puppy’s ears and posed for the photo.  It was a lot of fun.  As I was leaving, I asked about the puppy’s name–Bella.  I smiled and was warmed all over.

Well, three years ago, our children gave us a Christmas present.  Our big hunting dogs had all gone by then and the guns had been put away, so what came to live with us?  Right!  A Cavalier King Charles Spaniel named ROSEY FAIRCHILD.

I suppose all Anglophiles love dogs, but I am willing to bet the Cavalier is our favorite breed.  Rosey is like all Cavaliers:  under the covers and certainly staring at us with wet eyes as we have dinner.  How can you resist?

Just a thought.

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

Back to the Victoria and Albert–the V&A–we go.  As you wander through the V&A, find your way to the British Galleries.  There is a magnificent bed in these galleries that has a tale to tell:  THE BADMINTON 1754 CHINESE BED.

Many years ago, I had the good fortune to meet an amazing lady whom I grew to love and enjoy.  She was the daughter of the Marquess of Bath at Longleat who had married the 10th Duke of Beaufort.  She was truly one of the most amazing ladies I ever knew.  I used to go to Badminton Twice a year to see her and to wander through that great house.  I remember when the Great Cabinet with Queen Mary’s note in it still was in the ballroom (before the Johnson family bought it).  Queen Mary had spent the war years at Badminton House because Mary Cambridge, Duchess of Beaufort, wife of the old Duke— called Master because he was Master of the Queen’s Horse for so many years–was the Queen’s niece.  The 9th Duke and the Duchess cared for Queen Mary to keep her out of harm’s way during World War II;  the old Queen arrived with all her jewels and ninety servants.  Queen Mary had many, many projects like removing ivy from the house and motoring out to visit owners of the great English country houses and to shop for antiques in Bath.  They kept her busy in the house by welcoming guests that came to stay for the extended weekends–Eleanor Roosevelt being one of the most notables.  She also kept busy by cataloging all of the Duke of Beautfort’s possessions:  chests, paintings, miniatures, chairs, tables, the Canalettos, and of course the Great Chest.

The Badminton Horse Trails were suspended during the war, but on the occasion the Beaufort Hunt gathered–the Duke’s hounds were world famous.

But, there is a tale which is fascinating.  In 1754 the 4th Duke of Beaufort’s wife had a great project.  Everything CHINESE was all the rage in England–it could be Japanese, but it was all lumped under the one world CHINOISERIE.  Well, the Duchess decided that she wanted to have the most chinois object in the realm.  She commissioned John Linnell in 1754 to design and craft a magnificent bed for the Chinese Room at Badminton House.  For two hundred years, it was the highlight of the Beaufort family’s collection.  UNTIL 1921.

After World War I, the cost of running the great country estates became a challenge.  Many of the great owners were forced to sell land or some of their fine collections.  Badminton was a village on the duke’s estate where local farmers worked the duke’s lands, almost in a feudal system.  But when all the young men went off to war, the entire estate carried on by different means.

In many ways, the old Dukes of Badminton were not business men who were prepared to adapt to the new world.  Many of the other great estates gradually opened their doors to the public.  But, Badminton carried on, somewhat in the old manner.  The Horse Trials brought a great deal of attention to the estate.  Also, the Royal Family were close to the Dukes through family ties.  The Queen was very close to her Master of the Queen’s House, the Duke of Beaufort.  She found privacy in this old world setting and enjoyed coming here to ride and enjoy the Duke’s great pride:  his hounds.

Unfortunately, all this costs a great deal of money.  So, in 1921, the 8th Duke of Beaufort sold the Badminton Chinese bed to be exhibited in the V&A Museum where discriminating eyes can enjoy it along with the magnificent chinoiserie mirror which is its companion.  I see it there often because I cut through the V&A, through the British Galleries when I walk home from Church down Exhibition Road each Sunday afternoon.

But, that is not the end of the story.  In 1929, the 8th Duke decided that his Chinese Room was terribly pointless without its great bed.  So, he hired a talented craftsman in Bath to design and build a copy of the original where it was installed to replace the original one.

So, I feel fortunate to have enjoyed seeing both beds over the years.  When you are wandering through the galleries on the Cromwell Road, pop into the British Galleries and just wonder what a world it was when people designed and built so extravagantly like this.  Again, it is history seen through objects.  It is as if they can talk and tell us about the China Trade, “chinese” porcelain, export wares, and silk which were dazzling the landowners.  Please revisit history–enjoy the great Badminton Bed in the V&A.

As an aside, when you are at Kew, visit the Chinese Pagoda which was built during this same period.  The Pagoda was built by Chambers for Princess Augusta, Princess of Wales–Mother of King George III.

The Princess of Wales had her 1750 Pagoda, and the 4th Duchess of Beaufort had her 1754 Chinese bed.  It must have been a wonderful time when the world was opening up, and cultures were exchanging commodities and ideas–sometimes not so willingly, however.  And we are fortunate to have the objects which remind us of this great exchange.

A few years ago, I invited eight American artists to paint on the grounds of Badminton House.  The Duchess was very gracious, and we had a wonderful time.  And the results were wonderful.  What an exciting time it was.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

When I am at Windsor Castle, I enjoy several royal portraits which hang in the many small and larger rooms of this amazing bastion of the English Royal Family.  The first portrait I want to highlight is the TRIPLE PORTRAIT OF CHARLES I by VanDyck.  It is one of the most beautiful images ever painted by Anthony VanDyck prior to the Interregnum of Cromwell.

The portrait has an interesting history.  The king commissioned the triple portrait from Van Dyck to send to Rome to be used as a reference for the sculptor Bernini who was the leading sculptor of his day.  He did the famous sculpture portrait of Louis XIV at Versailles which survives.

The portrait was completed and sent to London to be placed in Whitehall Palace.  The Van Dyck portrait was returned with the sculpture and thereby was returned to the Royal Collection.  The commission to complete  a sculpture of the King’s consort Henrietta Maria was never undertaken because of the execution of Charles I.

The spectacular Bernini bust was warmly received by the King;  however, long after his death, the sculpture was lost in the Whitehall Fire of 1698.  BUT THE PORTRAIT SURVIVES for all to enjoy.

When you are Windsor, pay particular note of this fine painting and enjoy its history.  Last month, when I was in the Victoria and Albert, I wandered through the period rooms.  To my amazement, I saw a second version of the VanDyck portrait.  But don’t be fooled, this is a copy of the original.  The original painting was so admired during Van Dyck’s age that several copies from that period exist in various collections in English country houses.

So, when you are in the Victoria and Albert, have a look at one the famous copies.    Believe me, I’d take even a copy.  If anyone can arrange that, please keep me in mind.

Oh my, the world of art is unending and brings such pleasure.  Wandering through great galleries, royal residences, and country houses is a pastime of immense pleasure.

Thanks,

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

WELCOME TO ROME

Boy oh boy!  Do I have a goodie for you!

We all have reasons to throw logs on the DISGUST-FOR-HITLER BONFIRE. The history books are full of incredible and frightening stories about the Third Reich and their torture, concentration camps, extermination camps, Blitz, murders, and PERFECT ARYAN MAN experiments.   But let me add one more log to the bonfire.

I have been searching for some interesting details to include in my blog on Tragalgar Square.  I have been looking for not-so-well-known bits of interesting trivia.  I have been working on it for two or three days, but I discovered something I would like to share with my readers which will amaze you.  It probably shouldn’t surprise us, but it certainly stopped me in my tracks.

When I was gathering notes about the removal of art works from the National Gallery for safety reasons during the war, I ran across a footnote which referred me to a document obtained by the Americans after the fall of Berlin.  The document was the personal file of Adolf Hitler containing his plans for lavish victory celebrations when the Germans had successfully invaded England and were occupying London.  He was certainly planning ahead.

The document reveals that Hitler had made plans for the removal of Nelson’s Column in Trafalgar Square and for its shipment to Germany to be placed in the heart of Berlin as his most important trophy.  Imagine, Berlin with Nelson’s Column placed in front of the Reich’s Chancellery, eventually to be moved to his dream capital of Germania.

I don’t know about you, but my English blood just boiled.  One more log to burn on the Hitler bonfire.

I thought you all would enjoy this bit of trivia.  If you think about it very long, the very though will drive you mad.  What a horrible thought.  Yikes!

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

Every tourist that comes to London eventually finds himself enjoying the fountains and bronze sculptures on Trafalgar Square.  We all have taken photos of our families posing on the backs of Landseer’s recling lions.  Nelson’s Column is the item we remember most.

But, let me point out a bronze sculpture which might be missed;  yet, this is the finest sculpture of them all.  At the far end of Trafalgar Square, at the head of Whitehall, Hubert Le Sueur’s 1633 equestrian sculpture of Charles I rests on an exquisite base.  Charles I was executed by Cromwell just down Whitehall, two blocks away.

So, how is it that this royal sculpture survived under the Interregnum of Cromwell? Most symbols of monarchy were destroyed or were melted down.  This equestrian monument survived because the Royalists removed it from its pedestal and buried it, saving it to rise again under Charles II.

These days, the Jacobite organizations place a wreath at the foot of this monument in remembrance of the execution of Charles I.

Take the time and walk through Trafalgar Square to enjoy this monument.  LeSueur’s 375 year-old equestrian monument is exquisite.  Next you are at Windsor Castle, be sure to see VanDyck’s triple portrait of this ill-fated King, Charles I.

This is a fascinating period in English history.  I will post a picture of the statue and a picture of Charles I–not showing much humility, for sure.  The  DIVINE RIGHTS OF KINGS became a problem.

Thanks,

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

My mother –Ol’ Dorothea–should have been a sergeant.  Her opinions were always very adamant and usually correct.  I always admired her because she never stopped learning, and she never allowed us to be idle.  Now, of course, I am very grateful for her influence.  She was a master “teacher.”

At an early age, books were part of our lives.  Ol’ Dorothea read to us, and then every night we read to her.  As our reading level mounted, the more mature books were put in our laps.  I always felt she gave us books which were just a bit more difficult than our reading level.  So, we struggled, and then we achieved.

One of the books I remember reading was W. Somerset Maughan’s OF HUMAN BONDAGE.  It started out: THE DAY BROKE GRAY AND DULL, AND IT WAS RAINING.  Oh boy, I knew it was going to be heavy going.  I kept complaining as I started.  My Mother’s response:  A GREAT BOOK CANNOT DEVELOP THAT WHICH IT DOES NOT INTRODUCE.  But I assure you, I felt that the introduction was going on forever.  I kept going.

I felt accomplished when I finished the novel.  It had really affected me.  So, last year, with good memories, I decided I would visit the sites I had read about in OF HUMAN BONDAGE.  I walked down Piccadilly, up Air St, down Regent Street back to Pidcadilly Circus–following Mildred’s evening search for clients.  I was reliving this novel from my youth.

Then the final words of the novel hit me:  STANDING ON THE BALCONY OF THE NATIONAL GALLERY, I LOOKED OUT OVER TRAFALGAR SQUARE WITH THE OMNIBUSES GOING TO AND FRO–AND THE SUN WAS SHINING.  So, I decided to walk up the stairs of the National Gallery, stand on the balcony between the great indentilated columns overlooking the Square and enjoy this incredibly beautiful view.  Philip, the main character of OF HUMAN BONDAGE, had found happiness after a long struggle.  He enjoyed this achievement in a place certainly suitable for such a celebration.

What a view from the balcony of the NATIONAL GALLERY.  It is fantastic.  I highly recommend it.

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

THE QUEEN ALEXANDRA MEMORIAL is one of the most beautiful tributes in London.  I walk around St. James’s Palace often because I live only one block away.  So, I pass by this magnificent work of art almost daily.  I want to share it with you.

In 1861, Princess Alexandra arrived in England to marry the oldest son of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, H.R.H. Prince Albert Edward The Prince of Wales –later King Edward VII.  When ALEXANDRA arrived at Gravesend on an English frigate, the country was immediately captivated by her great beauty, elegant manner, and gentle spirit.  Poetry was written about her, and artists and sculptures were eager to capture her in images.  It became clear very soon that this was a special Queen.

Upon her arrival at Gravesend, a young boy by the name of Alfred Gilbert was there and became infatuated by this beautiful lady.  During his life, he became a great sculptor.  In fact, he did the memorial for the Duke of Clarence at Windsor.  He was also a member of the Royal Academy.  During his mature years, he left England –bankruptcy disgrace–and lived in Bruges.  But he was later encouraged to return to London to accomplish this memorial to Queen Alexandra and finish the memorial to the Duke of Clarence, the King’s older brother.

Gilbert returned to England in 1926, a year after Queen Alexandra’s death.  He agreed to the memorial undertaking because of his gratitude to Queen Alexandra who kept in touch with Alfred Gilbert while he was in exile, even supporting him financially.  King George V, Queen Alexandra’s son, who disliked Gilbert intensely was finally persuaded by Queen Mary who was aware of the private relationship between Gilbert and Queen Alexandra.  While he was working on this memorial, he was also finishing the Duke of Clarence Memorial.  King George V was finally persuaded to restore him to his position at the Royal Academy and grant him the title of Sir Alfred Gilbert.

All that aside, as you walk down the west side of Marlborough House in front of St. James’s Palace, this magnificent bronze memorial will stop you in your tracks.  The size and beauty of the sculpture really affected me.

On the base of the memorial, the words FAITH, HOPE, LOVE are inscribed in the red marble.  These attributes of Queen Alexandra are symbolized in the three figures above which hold a young female figure whose arms are positioned to give the effect of a cross.

The sculptor felt these three virtues summarized the personality of the Queen.  This artist had experienced her kindness himself and was always grateful to her.  This symbolic memorial is very successful in expressing these virtues.

This is a beautiful memorial–perfect for this beautiful Queen who symbolized all that was good in the English character.  She was so admired that in later life when the Queen developed a limp, fashionable ladies copied her gait–small item, but revealing of their love for her.

A very moving experience.  Don’t miss.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

THE ART WORLD IN LONDON IS FLOURISHING. I am amazed at what is happening in the galleries, in art boutiques, and certainly on the streets. I like to walk down Charing Cross to look at the coin store. Then, I cross and walk down to the National Portrait Gallery and around the corner to the National Gallery. Often, there are young artists doing portraits and all of that kind of stuff. But lately, there have been a growing number of eastern Europeans who are coming to London to experience the contemporary art scene. There doesn’t seem to be any money for art in their homelands, but they are finding a market for their art in London. So, here and there between the more touristy stuff, there is a genuine artist with his canvas and oils or watercolors and paper creating some quite amazing canvases.

When I was in London in September, I noticed a very frustrating painting. Day after day, I watched the artist work on this image. One day, I stopped to talk to him and found that he had come from Hungary and was trying to break into the London art market. He told me that a gallery had spotted him and his work and were arranging a show for him in November–now as I write this post. I asked him why he was painting on the street. His reply was that many people stop and talk to him including several art dealers. Of course he was frustrated by the tourists who thought his work would sell for 5 pounds, but frequently he met serious collectors.

Finally, I was hooked. His name was Onodi Karoly Balazs (http:www.kepafalon.hu/festmenyek_Onodi_Karoly_Balazs_sejtelmek,a_ferfi_kid_19432.html), after passing by almost every day watching him paint this complicated canvas, he called me TOM. I mentioned that I liked to collect pictures and was a frustrated collector because I could never confine myself to a particular style. I love classical art and have gathered some lovely 18th century works over the years. But I also like the blasts of colors and the highly geometric canvases. When my son started to paint graffiti, I loved all the lettering, colors, courageous designs, and arrangements. I have never been successful acquiring one of my son’s pictures, but if I am ever successful, I will hang it right next to an 18th century portrait which now hangs on my walls. I told Onodi the street painter that my new theory is to hang it all up AND LET THE BEST ONES WIN. He smiled when I told him I was going to put up several very large pieces of canvas in my back garden and cover them with wild splashes of color I don’t know if anyone will like them, but at least I will be happy.

I became friends with both the artist and his French girlfriend as well as the canvas he was finishing. I knew that I was returning to the States in a couple of weeks, and I was determined that this wildly monochromatic abstract was going home with me. I asked Karoly Onodi if I could take his picture with his painting; he was pleased. He wrote his name and email address in my pocket notepad, and we have been in contact since I returned to the States. I have been following his preparation for his gallery opening on Thanksgiving day. I only wish I could be there.

Finally, I asked him if I could buy the piece I had been watching him paint. He smiled and said he hoped that I would buy it; he wanted it to have a good home. He kept it another day to be sure it was dry enough to be rolled and put in a tube, and then we met at the regular place in front of the National Portrait Gallery, and I paid him. He was pleased with the cash, and I was whistling with my picture. It is now framed in a marvelous wood frame and will hang on a wall in our home in the mountains where the wood of the frame and the tones in the picture will fit right into the setting. It will have a happy home.

I have been thinking about this experience. I know that I like what I like, but I still don’t know what or why. So, I just give up and like it all. But more, London offers locals and visitors the opportunity to share. I can’t stop talking to the artists who are struggling on the streets. I like their stories and their efforts. Most pictures I quickly leave behind, but often I meet an artist who is painting something I like really a lot. But it is the conversations, the dialogs, the stories, the struggles, and the efforts. When I meet these young artists from all over taking a stab at the London art market, I feel their authenticity. They are REAL artists, living in attics and have hands and fingernails covered and lined in aged paint. For some, it is just fun. But for others, they are serious about their futures. For me, I just want to buy their pictures and talk to them and make new friends.

My advice to my friends is to get into the heart of London. Don’t be a spectator only. Talk to the people on the streets, in the pubs, in the clubs, on the buses. TALK TO THE ARTISTS ON THE CURBS. You might meet someone you will keep as a friend. PERHAPS YOU MIGHT BRING HOME A PAINTING. I am sure I will run out of wall space–already have–but that doesn’t stop me. But I don’t ever want to run out of new friends. Really enjoy your wandering and watching and conversing. You will come home a very enriched traveler. YOU WILL HAVE HAD AN AUTHENTIC TRIP TO LONDON.

http://www.kepafalon.hu/Onodi_Karoly_Balazs_festmenyek_mid_275.html

THOMAS MOORE

http://www.londonconnection.com

When I am trying to get lost in London, walking down streets I have never known or riding a bus to areas I don’t  know, I take a small London guide with me.  My old pocket companion has been with me for many years, and I wouldn’t be without it.  Every time I go to Westminster Abbey, I pull out my little pocket guide friend in an effort to identify more and more of the sculptures, memorials, and plaques.  My library at home has stacks and stacks of biographies and histories and still I am confronted with a “stranger”–a person I have never heard of–out of English’s glorious past.  These days, it is rare to run into a new memorial to someone who is like an old friend.

Early this year, my walk down the Mall offered a most wonderful, happy, beautifully deserved memorial–THE MEMORIAL TO H.M. QUEEN ELIZABETH THE QUEEN MOTHER. Just a few weeks before, I walked this same route to see the exhibition at the Queen’s Gallery at Buckingham Palace and noted with pleasure the bronze sculpture of King George VI sitting high on his marble pedestal, so elegant and reserved–just what I would have expected to see at the memorial to this very reserved King.

But on this occasion, a few weeks later, I was amazed by the transformation of the site.  There she was, THE QUEEN MOTHER in all her Garter Robes–robes, hat, and plumes.  I stood there for a moment and was amazed by what I saw.  What a transformation!

When you are near the Palace, walk on down the Mall, past Marlborough House, near to Carlton House Terrace, and you will enjoy a wonderful moment of reflection about World War II, horse racing, fancy hats, rows of pearls, and that infectuous smile.

This memorial is one of those walks you have to undertake.  It is an uplifting spot.  Let me share my photos with you.  Hats off to the Queen Mother.  You deserve this memorial.  We all agree.

Thanks,

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com