September 4, 2010

PATRIOTISM IS NOT ENOUGH – EDITH CAVELL 12 October 1915

Filed under: Art and Sculpture,BRITISH HISTORY,LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 7:57 pm

My walking route to Trafalgar Square is down CHARING CROSS ROAD.  When I reach the NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, I glance over to a large granite monument in the middle of the intersection.  I really haven’t paid much attention to it before, but last evening, while I was on my way to a concert at St. Martin in-the-field, I stopped and read the inscription on the base of the monumnet.

The inscription says:  PATRIOTISM IS NOT ENOUGH.  I MUST HAVE NO HATRED OR BITTERNESS FOR ANYONE.  These words really hit me.  In the troubled times we live, EDITH CAVELL’s statement deserves our attention.

EDITH CAVELL was an English nurse in German-occupied Belgium during World War I.  She was instrumental in getting hundreds of soldiers to freedom for which she was discovered and executed by the Germans on 12 October, 1915.

During the intermission of the St. Martin’s concert, I walked over to the monument again and took ths photograph.  I hope you enjoy this post.  CAVELL’s  1915 words have great meaning for us today.  There it is, right in the middle of one of the busiest intersections of London.

Worth pondering.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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CAN ANYONE IDENTIFY THIS COTTAGE?

Filed under: LONDON WALKS,Solve the question — tmooresr @ 7:30 pm

THIS HAPPY COTTAGE AND GARDEN IS IN LONDON.  Can anyone identify it?    Every time I see this delightful setting, I am amazed.

Who knows where it is?

Fun

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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September 1, 2010

A PERFECT MORNING WALK IN CENTRAL LONDON

Filed under: BRITISH HISTORY,LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 7:41 am

This early morning, I walked to Tesco’s on REGENT STREET to pick up a few breakfast treats like grapes, apples, croissants, and yogurt.  It was going to be a perfect breakfast–I have no idea why one grape on the stem is so sweet while the next one on the same stem is SOUR AS HELL!  Oh well, I had a fun morning walk ahead of me and had no time to figure out the grape problem.

I strolled down REGENT STREET until I reached WATERLOO PLACE where I took out my camera and started to shoot images.  Perfect subject for my blog–full of history and beauty.

Even though Waterloo Place is a much earlier  square than the 1861 LAMP BASE indicates, we realize that this historic square is full of history which we are going to learn about.

The MEMORIAL TO THE WARS IN THE CRIMEA is so English during the height of the Empire:  grand, sense of empire, sense of World power. This is a very beautiful monument.

Ah, FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE, the great nurse of the WARS IN THE CRIMEA which gave great attention to the role of nurses during wartime.  Ah, there is a story.  I have a huge UNION JACK which flew over an English fort in Crimea–full of holes and tattered.  I love it.  Perhaps FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE knew my flag.

The base of the MEMORIAL TO FLORENCE NIGHTINGALE is a beautiful plaque placed into the marble at the time of her death in 1910–goodness, a year after my mother’s birth.

Check on the nearby buildings, and you will see the street marker WATERLOO PLACE.  I love these street markers;  they are so much more suitable than our street corner poles which are always being knocked down by some crazy driver or bus.  Eh?

Note the street markers around the monument confirming that this square was organized during the reign of William IV in 1830–the uncle of Queen Victoria who was his heir.  The square is much older than the CRIMEA MONUMENT.

Cross the busy street–PALL MALL–it’s a ZEBRA CROSSWALK, so you are safe and turn back and snap your photos of WATERLOO PLACE.  It is really lovely.

You are now standing in front of the GENTLEMEN CLUBS with their beautiful sculptures and freizes.  These are the seats of power where the shakers and makers meet at their CLUBS for drinks  and “powerful” gossip.  The walls are lined with royal portraits and famous past members of the club.  Really pretty important stuff!  English gentlemen have loved their clubs for centuries–and here they still are and still very busy places.  I belong to one of these clubs, but I rarely go.  I am too active to be sitting in a place where the only way you know if a man is DEAD OR ALIVE is the angle of the newspaper!

ARCTIC NAVIGATOR FRANKLIN stands proudly on Carlton House Terrace where we are now– once we have crossed the busy street.  This memorial to FRANKLIN was built by Act of Parliament–one of the few unanimous decisions ever made at the Palace of Westminster.  This was deserving.  I don’t think our Congress has ever had such a common consensus;  we thrive on contention and hatred.  They do here as well, but not whenit came to ARCTIC NAVIGATOR FRANKLIN.

NOTE CAREFULLY THE MEMORIAL ON THE BASE OF THE STATUE–To Franklin for his DISCOVERY OF THE NORTH WEST PASSAGE in 1847 .  Fabulous.

If you turn to the center of the square, you can’t miss the very impressive EQUESTRIAN MEMORIAL TO KING EDWARD VII, Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s son and heir whose ENTENTE CORDIALE was wonderful evidence of this King’s talent if only he could keep away from his gambling, extra ladies, and family arguments.  He was the hero of the TEDDY BOYS, the bad boys of his generation who saw this king as their hero.  He really did win his people’s love  and affection as did his gorgeous wife Queen Alexandra.  He gave his name to the age:  THE EDWARD ERA.

Note the CARLTON HOUSE TERRACE SIGN.  You are now standing in the spot where the PRINCE REGENT, later George IV had his gorgeous CARLTON HOUSE which was torn down when Buckingham House was expanded and became BUCKINGHAM PALACE or “BUCK HOUSE” as Londoners call it.

We turn now to the stairs which take us to the MALL and over to ST. JAMES’S PARK.  But, first, look up and you will see the COLUMN CELEBRATING THE GRAND OLD DUKE OF YORK, one King George III’s sons.  Remember our childhood ditty  which went something like this:  THE GOOD OLD DUKE OF YORK ,  HE MARCHED HIS…………   Well, this Grand Old Duke of York was hated by his troops.  On payday, he kept bits of each soldier’s salary to raise the funds to build this column/memorial in his honor.  It is a big story, and I am sure you will look it up.  He was one of Queen Victoria’s uncles whom her mother, the Duchess of Kent, kept from knowing her daughter.  The Duchess of Kent considered all the Hanoverian Uncles useless and corrupt–all except the Duke of Sussex whom Queen Victoria loved–he gave the young “away” at her marriage to Prince Albert as her father had died when she was but a baby.  Go read the rest;  it is a fascinating story.  The movie VICTORIA AND ALBERT will give you a lot of insight into this tale as well.

You have now crossed the MALL to the St. James’s Park side and you have encountered the memorial to the Boer War.  That was a messy event which left a lot of unhappiness in England, but it’s a nice memorial tucked under the gorgeous PLANE TREES in the park.

Before you is St. James’s Park, a Royal Park, and once connected to St. James’s Palace.  This is where we are going to find a bench and have our healthy breakfast.

To disrupt your morning will be the aggressive GEESE who almost attack someone having a snack.  The squirrels will crawl up your leg if you let them.  I was sitting in St. James’s Park a few years ago with my friend Erika Martin, and we enjoyed a real show:  every morning, an elderly gentleman came to the park with his bag of peanuts.  He had a special SQUIRREL who greeted him each morning.  The little pest jumped on the bench and onto his arm to get his peanuts, one by one.  The Squirrel was very pleased as he ran away to hide them.  The elderly man had been doing this for years and found great joy in this lovely gesture.  I didn’t see him this morning, and I stopped and wondered……  Anyway, watch out for those damn geese.

I am posting the DECK CHAIR POLICY.  On a warm, sunny day, you can rent a deck chair and soak up the bits of London sun that are so cherished.  Sometimes, there is music in the Pavilion.  Several years ago, Stephanie and I were sitting in our deck chairs and heard an entire Schubert symphony.  WONDERFUL  The English really know how to love their city and their parks.  Be sure your deck chair isn’t cracked, or it will be a real bummer!

It is now time to leave the park and walk up the Mall to Buckingham Palace.  As we leave the park, we note the design over the gate.  We note the crown because this is a Royal Park.  Under the crown we note the LEAK, THE ROSE, AND THE THISTLE–Wales, England, and Scotland.

THIS IS THE WAY TO START THE DAY.  You will be a history student without a book–but with the real thing!  I truly love it here.   I am very happy in London.  I know you will be also.  Please come spend some time in ST. JAMES’S PARK and stay in our flat on Pall Mall.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 31, 2010

A WALK DOWN JERMYN STREET, ST. JAMES’S

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 10:15 pm

A walk down Jermyn Street in St. James’s is a man’s world.  With all the MEN’S CLUBS on St. James’s St. at one end of JERMYN STREET and Haymarket on the other, THIS IS WHERE WELL DRESSED MEN HAVE SHOPPED FOR YEARS.

The bronze statue of BEAU BRUMMELL, the historic DANDY,  says it all.

Let’s start our walk in front of Harvie and Hudson, still in their Victorian shop.  Beautiful.  Note the beautiful Victorian tiles still decorating this period building.

Then we check out the shoes at RUSSELL AND RROMLEY SHOES

FLORIS colognes and scents  flaunt their ROYAL WARRANT over their shop–since 1750

Then to FOSTER AND SON

On to ALFRED DUNHILL where I bought my best dark blue suit a couple of years ago

THE PICCADILLY ARCADE – the Victorian shopping Mall has one shop after another of enticing men’s shops

I love to go to TREVOR PHILIP AND SON where the most amazing WORLD GLOBES and INSTRUMENTS are offered.  This is a fabulous shop where you can spend a bit of cash after you have bought your new clothes all up and down the street .   It is a bit of “fresh air” among all the DANDYISM of the street.

All the shaving equipment at TAYLOR OF OLD BOND STREET.  This is a fascinating place.  One day, when my grandsons get their first hint of a beard, I will bring them here for a good start.  Very beautiful and interesting window.

And then to BATES to end our walk down JERMYN STREET IN ST. JAMES’S.  I love to walk down the street looking at all the 19th century shop fronts, Victoian tiles, and beautiful hand-made shoes.  I love the expression BOOT MAKERS–sounds so much better than PAYLESS SHOES that haunt us these days.  Hm!  I will have a think about that one.

Enjoy your walk.  When you are tired and hungry, step into FORTNUM AND MASON which has its cafe door on JERMYN STREET.

NICE.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 29, 2010

PICCADILLY CIRCUS WHERE YOU WILL MEET EVERYONE FROM ALL OVER THE PLANET

Filed under: LONDON WALKS,PHOTO SHARING,caught with the camera — tmooresr @ 6:15 pm

DRIVING AROUND PICCADILLY CIRCUS AND UP SHAFTESBURY AVENUE IS A NIGHTMARE.  I avoid the CIRCUS if at all possible.  The other evening, I had some time before I went to the theater, and decided I would “experience” the PICCADILLY CIRCUS scene.  Years ago, I took my children to see all the spiked hair and amazing outfits, but I have not been motivated to spend time since.

Well, I went to PICCADILLY CIRCUS and enjoyed myself a great deal.  I had my theater ticket, a 20 pound note, and my umbrella with me, so no one would find any great treasure in my pockets.  I put my camera around neck because I knew it would be photo opportunity after photo opportunity.  I was determined to enjoy myself, and I was not disappointed.

There must be no one left in Rome/Milan/Naples.  Hundreds of Italians were at PICCADILLY CIRCUS enjoying themselves as you would expect.  The young Italian ladies are absolutely beautiful and were posing for photos with their friends.

Then came the Spaniards.  It must be hot in southern Spain because they all came to London to cool off.  They were in small bunches all around the CIRCUS reading the A-Z trying to figure out where they were going next.  There was a sound of music in the air, and I expected everyone to start dancing at any minute.

Everyone there completed ignored the traffic whirling around them– the tour buses, the bicycle taxis, the fabulous cars, and the cyclists.

The souvenir stand was selling refigerator magnets for 1.5 pounds each, and I think every tourist had at least one in his pocket.

Of course there were those who had been drinking too much, but that is to be expected.  Lovers were glued to each other with their eyes aware of no one but their partners.  There is a lot of energy when young lovers gather to enjoy an evening.  They were all bundled up because it was cold in London.

I had to smile at all the shopping bags serving as foot rests or pillows for those who had been spending their souvenir money.

One Israeli fellow wanted me to take his picture.  I told him I would post his picture on my website.  Then I got a real smile from one happy young man who was hunting for some beautiful Spanish girl to spend the evening with.  Of course THE LADS came around and acted like a line of bulls ready to “bully” anyone in their way.  No one paid any attention.

I was amazed that there was no police presence in case things got out of hand.  A lovely couple with their two little children in strollers were watching all the goings-on.  We started to talk only to learn that he worked for EASY JET  and travels all over Europe.  They were a lovely family, and I enjoyed my visit.

MARY QUANT would have been thrilled to see all the mini-skirts.  These long, outrageous stockings were topped with something that might be considered one third of a skirt.  Prink and red stripes with a blue mini-skirt  or  brown and black long stockings with a purple mini.  Goodness, there were more flashing bums on PICCADILLY CIRCUS that evening than I had seen in my entire life.  What young people can get away with!  Well…….

I love to see people enjoying each other, taking photographs, laughing, and chatting up someone.  Everyone was acting YOUNG.

I enjoyed my time there.  It was a good interlude in my day, and I felt good about people enjoying their time together.  They came to have fun, and that is exactly what they were doing.  SMILES EVERYWHERE.  I know my grandchildren would be right in the middle of mayhem.

What a lot of fun.  Wonderful.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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SUNDAY SERVICES AND A WALK DOWN WHITEHALL — PERFECT !

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 3:09 am

For me, Sunday morning is time to be in church.  My parents, grandparents, and great-grandparents all taught me that people who believe in a Higher Power will have happier and more responsible lives.  I know that many of my dearest friends challange that position, but it has been the underlying source for the happy life and journey I have experienced.  I love dearly people of all religious backgrounds.    Therefore, on Sunday morning I like to be with people of faith.  I love to go to Westminster Abbey Sunday morning and hear the choir boys sing, the great organ play, and sit in those seats and just soak in that magnificent building.  Oh, that music goes right to the soul–all kinds of goose bumps, for sure!  I start my day in Westminster Abbey, then I take my walk up Whitehall all the way to the National Gallery, and then I grab a taxi and rush to church meetings with people of my own faith on Exhibition Road.  But let me take you on my walk up Whitehall.  It is a very cool morning here in London–high of 60 degrees today, so I have my warm cashmere sweater under my lined jacket.  Got my unbrella and my camera.  So, we are all set–let’s go!

Since this is a Sunday walk, I suggest you start your walk at the Abbey after attending a service.   You will leave the abbey with all kinds of emotions, sitting among the tombs of names which filled our history books.  When I go to the abbey and find my chair over the grave marker of THOMAS HARDY, I know I have a lot ot think about.  After the service, I leave through the great west door and walk past the TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER and read words that only an Englishman could write:  FOR GOD AND KING.  Sometimes, we are directed to leave through the CLOISTER, but that is a spectacular diversion as well.  STAND BACK AND LOOK AT THE ABBEY IN ALL ITS BEAUTY–A creation to honor God and certainly the GREATS OF ENGLAND’S LONG HISTORY.

Walk past the Great East Door where you will see the BIBLE in stone.  The central doorway is particularly beautiful, and I enjoy it very much as I pass by on my to see the beautiful triptic in St. Margaret’s.

St. Margaret’s is the church for members of the government.  Churchill was married here.  I attended Lord Renton’s funeral here a few years ago where I heard the John Major speak and watched Lady Thatcher arrive to be seated on the second row after the family.  It was a magical experience.   I felt honored to have been invited.  It is a beautiful church.

As I leave St. Margaret’s I stand and look at BIG BEN ready to strike.  I took a photo this morning of Big Ben towering over Westminster Hall at the Palace of Westminster where Henry VIII played tennis and where England’s Kings and Queens have lain in State.  I rushed to London when the Queen Mother died, and I was determined to stand in the 6-hour line to walk past her coffin.  I loved the great old Queen, and I felt that I owed her that experience for all the joy she had brought me and other members of the British public over her long life.  She won a lifetime of love from her people when she and the King were faced with the safety of their two daughters during World War II:  THEY WILL NEVER LEAVE WITHOUT ME;  I WILL NEVER LEAVE WITHOUT THE KING, AND THE KING WILL NEVER LEAVE.  Well, we could spend all day going over the history of WESTMINSTER HALL.

Let’s walk around Parliament Square to see the large bronze statue of Abraham Lincoln.  If you have a $20.00 US gold coin, you will see the similarity of this sulpture and your coin.  Look it up;  you will see why.  Walk on round to the corner and see the amazing bronze statue of WINSTON CHURHILL.  By all means, tip your hat out of gratitude to this great leader.   I think Winston Churchill is the greatest hero of the 20th century.  He loved himself, and I admire him almost as much as he did.

Enjoy the RED PHONE BOX.  These are disappearing these days, but this a particularly beautiful one.

I walk up the west side of Whitehall.  I can’t stop snapping images of these fabulous buildings.  Edward VII’s cyphers adorn the entrnace into the CABINET WAR ROOMS.  So grand–so England.

Then move on to the glorious building  THE EXCHEQUER.  Stunning.  I am in no rush when I come to this building.  When I watch all the glass buildings popping up all over London, I understand the great debate about modern architecture.  I don’t believe architecture should stand still, but the question is QUALITY which I think the public senses.  And the debate continues.

The CENOTAPH is a memorial TO THE GLORIOUS DEAD and was placed in the center of the street leading to the Palace of Westminster and Westminster Abbey at the same time the TOMB OF THE UNKNOWN SOLDIER was brought from the battle fields of France after World War I and placed in the Abbey.   Each year, the Royal Family honors those who died for their country at the CENOTAPH.  The King of Norway used to come from Norway to stand on the balcony with the Queen Mother to show his gratitude to Britain for British help during World War II.  Goodness, the stories go on forever.

Then we pass by the MEMORIAL TO THE WOMEN OF WORLD WAR II.  This is a comparatively new monument, but the history behind this MEMORIAL is amazing.  The women of Britain during World War II were tough.  They got to the task and did their job.  AGAIN FOR KING AND COUNTRY.

Then, you will walk past 10 Downing Street, the home of the British Prime Minister.  Those heavy gates tell me that sometimes, people get mad at the Prime Minister. Margaret Thatcher put them up–the Iron Lady–and that says it all.

I chatted with the guards with their high-powered rifles.  These fellows are sharp shooters.  I told them I come from the town in the USA where JOHN MOSE BROWNING lived and designed the BAR which was instrumental in the Battle of Britain.  I was amazed at how informed these officers were.  And, they were wonderful to talk to.  It was early Sunday morning, and I was the only person at the gates, so they had time, and I had the interest.  Wonderful.  Oh, I do love to travel.  I learn so much.

We then pass by HORSE GUARDS.  It is a holiday in London today so the horses were not in their stalls. The fabulous early entrance once was the entrance to WHITEHALL PALACE which burned down, all except THE BANQUETING HOUSE across the street–Inigo Jones’s masterpiece is still there in all its glory.  If you have time sometime, go back to the BANQUETING HOUSE and see VAN DYCK’S glorious ceiling.  We could go on and on about this place.  I wrote a blog early on about the BANQUETING HOUSE which you might wish to pull up from the archives and read.

But, don’t walk away without noticing the little sculpture placed over the entrance to THE BANQUETING HOUSE. It is CHARLES I who was beheaded by CROMWELL on this spot mid-1600′s.  Charles I’s  equestrian statue is at the top of the road–you will see it.  But, this horrific event which took place on this spot had huge effects on the social and political life of 17th and 18th century England.  Fabulous.  I could read about it for hours.

It was unfortunate this morning to see that the gates to the offices of the HIGH SEA LORD were fenced off for repairs.  I love to look through these gates and see the magnificent Ionic Columns of this Georgian facade.  Imagine, the offices of Lord Nelson and Earl Mountbatten of Burma right in front of you.  People with a sensitive historical nature find places like this almost sacred.  I love to be in this spot–sort of     I WALKED TODAY WHERE……..WALKED.   I have huge respect for both these men.  When I went to OSBORNE HOUSE, I took particular note of Lord Nelson’s ship VICTORY.

Be sure to note the nautical detail all around the HIGH SEA LORD’s offices.  Fabulous and meaningful.

Before you come to the end of the street and face TRAFALGAR SQUARE, look up Craig Court.  There is a wonderful pub there with all its original early lamps.  It is right out of the past.  We have a flat there, on Craig Court, which is perfect for people who want to be right in the middle of the HOT SPOT.  Great for young people;  not so good for older folks who sleep at night.  Oh, what a beautifully historic location.

Now are are coming up to TRAFALGAR SQUARE.  The first histoic site is the EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF CHARLES I.  He was beheaded just down the road, but he now sits forever at the top of the road. I think the Stuart ROYALISTS have something to say here.  They did dig up CROMWELL after Charles II returned to England, and they beheaded his corpse and stuck it on a spike.  So, King Charlie, we got ol’ Cromwell in the end.  I can tell you that Merry Old England had had enough of puritans and no dancing or merry making.  The RESTORATION PERIOD was one of great pleasure, led by the King and his many ladies.  (Ah by the way, the spot where the EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF CHARLES I IS NOW LOCATED IS THE ACTUAL CHARING CROSS OF MEDIEVAL TIMES, AND THE CROSS ORIGIINALLY WAS LOCATED IN THIS VERY SPOT.  CHARLIES I CAME LATER.)

Note the lamp bases on Trafalgar Square.  THEY CARRY THE CYPHER OF QUEEN VICTORIA   VR=Victoria Regina.  Keep your eyes open for these wonderful details.

As you cross the street to reach TRAFALGAR SQUARE – be careful – look left and you will see the MEMORIAL GATES to honor Queen Victoria which are the entance to the MALL which crosses through St. James’s Park to BUCKINGHAM PALACE.  But that is another walk which I have written about  in an earlier blog.  You can find it in the archives of this blog.

You are now on Trafalgar Square in the neighborhood of St. Martin in-the-Fields named after Gibb’s 18th century church where we all attend concerts, one night after another.

Don’t miss the smallest police station in London.

Before you is the Natonal Gallery, a place I go back to over and over again during a stay in London.  But let me tell you about the splendid colums in front of the NATIONAL GALLERY.  When King George IV and his architect NASH rebuilt Buckingham Palace, these colums were salvaged from his home CARLTON HOUSE which was demolished.  The furnishings of Carlton House went to Buckingham Palace and became the basis for the Royal Collection, but the columns were saved to eventually adorn the NATIONAL GALLERY.  They are so beautiful;  I just can’t imagine their being destroyed.  There they are in all their glory.  Ah, THE NATIONAL GALLERY–it’s a place of worship for a lot of us.

Turn your head to the top/right of TRAFALGAR SQUARE and you will see ST. MARTIN IN-THE-FIELDS, Gibb’s wonderful church; it became the style which determined much of the religious architecture in Colonial American.  I am going there for a concert tomorrow night, and I find myself sitting on those benches many times each year.  This is where our American Founding Fathers went to church.  Again I say….TODAY, I WALKED WHERE…..WALKED.  What a wonderful feeling.  I can’t imagine Benjamin Franklin in church, but I am going to find out. Go inside the church, sit for a moment for a rest, and just enjoy this beautiful religious structure–just restored.

AH, you will run into GEORGE WASHINGTON in front of the NATIONAL GALLERY.  He said he never wanted to put one foot on English soil, but there he is.  There is a real story about this–I wrote an article about this story which you can find in the archives of this blog site.  It is a fabulous story.

Now, stand at the top of TRAFALGAR SQUARE and look down WHITEHALL where you have walked.  When you look back, Somerset Maugham’s words in OF HUMAN BONDAGE come to mind:  AND THE OMNIBUSES PASSED TO AND FRO, AND I WAS HAPPY–Something like that.  This is one of the most splendid vistas you will ever see in Europe’s capitals.  I have sat in this spot JUST ADMIRING its beauty and history for years and years.  I invite you to join me.

This has been a long post.  I have spent my afternoon writing it, and I hope it is helpful if you decide to take this walk.  TAKE YOUR MICHELIN GUIDE WITH YOU, AND YOU WILL BE A SCHOLAR WHEN YOU FINISH.  What a fabulous experience.  Thank you for taking this walk with me.  My wife has done it with me so many times–she never refuses, and she is very patient with my love of strolling through London.  It is certainly not as much fun doing it alone, however, so I invited you all to come along to keep me company.

I really enjoy you all.  Your emails are meaningful and highly regarded.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 27, 2010

A WALK DOWN THE KING’S ROAD, CHELSEA

Filed under: LONDON WALKS,fashion — tmooresr @ 1:39 am

I remember the days when I used to walk down THE KING’S ROAD with faded jeans and a bomber jacket. (still have them tucked away in the closet–don’t have the heart to throw them away!) I remember when Mrs. Moore wore a green leather outfit, and I had black leather pants with a red leather jacket for a party at the Hippodrome on Leicester Square.   I have to smile as I think back on those fun days.  And where did we buy those outrageous outfits?  RIGHT, on the KING’S ROAD, CHELSEA.  Stephanie can still wear her green leathers, but I don’t think I could zip up my black leather slacks.  It is all a memory now. But, we did have great fun.

THE KING’S ROAD is not so radical or outrageous these days, but it is still a world where young people find their fashionable clothes.  There is a completely different feeling here than there is on Upper Sloane Street in Knightsbridge where the Princess of Wales used to shop.  Rupert Friend described the King’s Road exactly correct:  IT’S HIP.

SO, LET’S WALK DOWN MEMORY LANE and check out the shops.  One of our company’s flats is on Draycott Avenue, just off the King’s Road.  When one of our clients returned from London after staying in this flat, she called me and said that when her two daughters found the King’s Road, they never saw them again.  AND the jeans they had bought NEW on the King’s Road had more holes in them than the levis they had left at home, ripped and torn from years of shabby abuse.  We both laughed and remembered the days when we……….

So, let’s start our walk up the KING’S ROAD, departing from Peter Jones (on the north side of the street)–a really great department store with a fabulous “view” restaurant on the roof.  Walk up the street until you reach HABITAT and the Chelsea Town Hall.  You will pass by such shops as THE COLLECTION, REISS, AZENDI ACCESSORIZE, NEVER ENOUGH SHOES, HOBBS.  I am not tempted to buy anything, but when I see the clothes I wonder where in the world young people go dressed like this.  The dresses look like scarves, the pants look like jackets, the hats look like socks, the blouses look like underwear.  The style is for very skinny people.  I think RUPERT FRIEND AND KEIRA KNIGHTLY are the only people who can wear such things and look good in them.  If I were to buy some of these fashions and came home dressed like that, my family would have faces like a yard of crepe in disbelief.  But, hey, this is a fashion for young people, and they are just having fun.  I do wonder, though, why the styles I find here make men look like women and the women look like men.  It all seems mixed up to me.  Well, let’s walk down the other side of the street back to Sloane Square and let the therapists figure that situation out with their growing practices.

The shop I loved on the south side of the street was the WATCH REPAIR AND KEY SHOP.  Even this shop had style.  It was totally out-of-place while at the same time, it fit beautifully.  Very Chelsea ladies were in the shop getting their keys copied for their guests who would be staying in their houses while they are holidaying in Malta or Sardinia or Spain–anywhere warm.  I listened to two ladies chatting away while their keys were being cut;  this lady was all packed while the other lady HADN’T EVEN STARTED TO PACK AND WOULD BE UP ALL ALL ALL NIGHT GETTING READY TO LEAVE.  OH DEAR, OH DEAR.  I had to smile to myself.  BUT IT WAS CHELSEA, even in the key shop.  And I loved it.

I finally reached the beautifully restored Duke of York Plaza where I went in to check out the new PARTRIDGES shop with all the fine foods they offer.  I could hardly call them GROCERS, but that is what they are.  The food is fabulous, and all the cured ham and sausages really caught my eye.  Fresh vegetables and walls and walls of fine wine were all up to PARTRIDGES standard.

I had lunch at MANICOMIO on the terrace with our company manager Cristina.  She is away tomorrow for a week in Portugal, so she was INSTRUCTING me as I am left in charge.  We had a fabulous lunch, and everything was really very civilized here.  I recommend the restaurant for sure.  The food was wonderful as you would expect.

The height of HIP can be found at the TRILOGY shop.  Young people were packed in the shop like sardines.  I peeked in the shop and could see that this was good quality, even though ripped and tattered.  This is the shop where very upper class young people bought their outfits.  But it was next door which caught my attention.  MARY QUANT.  I remember the days when MARY QUANT walked around Chelsea in her mini-skirts and rocked the establishment.  I walked inside the shop, and sure enough I found mini-skirts.  I have a connection with Mary Quant.  She had a large flat with a huge lounge on Draycott Place where she took care of Nuryev, the great ballet dancer.  Mary installed a huge bath tub for her ballet friend to soak after a challenging night of dancing.  I know Mary Quant’s flat very well because we rented it for many, many years for its American owner after he had purchased it from Mary.   It was a fabulous flat and Nuryev used to dance the length of the massive living room;  his dancing bar is still along wall.

Finally, I reach Sloane Square, have a rest on the Square and watch all the taxis and cars motor by.  The fashionable ladies were quickly walking by in their tweed capes and umbrellas–it was just starting to rain again.  A young Polish girl was sitting next to me.  She was going to hear the SAINT-SAENS (ORGAN) SYMPHONY #3 in South Kensington in the evening, and she was studying the score.  We had a wonderful chat.  She is a music student in London for the next two years–happy as can be.

If you are in London, your young family will want to walk down the King’s Road.  I fear you won’t see them very much once they find these trendy shops.  IT IS A WALK DOWN MEMORY LANE, for sure.  AND A HAPPY ONE.

You have to love it.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 20, 2010

CECIL COURT, COVENT GARDEN – MY BIT OF HEAVEN

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 6:23 pm

I am very happy when I am wandering down CECIL COURT WC2 in Covent Garden.  It is my “Bit of Heaven.”  Our company has a flat at one end of CECIL COURT on St. Martin’s Lane and another flat at the other end of Court on Charing Cross.  I couldn’t be happier.  Cecil Court is owned by Cecil family who have kept the street as it was in the 18th century;  Mozart and his father lived above one of the shops when they first came to London in the 18th century.  So, the Court’s history is long and fabulously interesting.  I love to stand at one end of the Court and admire the beauty of the setting.  For me, there is nothing like it in all of London.  Besides, I love the dealers and have known them for years.  Let me introduce you to the shops in hopes you will visit this wonderful place.

STOREY’S is my world.  I stand for hours outside the shop and pour over the rows and rows of engravings and prints.  Tim, who owns the shop, emails me often when I am at home to tell me he has found something he knows I will love.  Tim has supplied me with over 300 engravings in the past two or three years.  I just framed 65 19th century SKY VANITY FAIR engravings of English politicians and leaders in English society for our new summer home above Deer Valley/Park City.  I acquired all of them from Tim at Storey’s.  The walls of the shop are lined with 18th and 19th century engravings:  military, political, royal subjects.  I go to see Tim in his shop the minute I have put my clothes away after a long flight from Salt Lake City.  It is here in this shop where I charge my batteries.  I have a passion for this shop and for these engravings.   I am very happy here.

Then, I wander into THE WITCH BALL which is a very fine shop offering antiquarian prints.  He has only the top of the line items which I really enjoy seeing, and sometimes buying.  Really nice.

MARK SULLIVAN ANTIQUES is an amazing shop with all kinds of Victorian antiques.  Lots of miniatures, Staffordshire, and everything Victorian.  My wife is always on the lookout for some miniature she cannot live without.

CHRISTOPHER ST. JAMES’s shop is really interesting.  He has all kinds of fashionable theatre pieces of jewellery.  His mother was a theater jewellery designer of the highest quality, and many of the elaborate pieces from films are along the walls.  He designs his own jewellery, and I have to say that this shop just draws you through the door.  I was in the shop yesterday when a very fashionable lady was trying on 10 bracelets and had them all on at once.  The exaggerated, the extreme, the avant garde are all here.  Everything is beautiful–almost other worldy.  Christopher lives in a world of design and has known most of the famous jewellers of our age.  He is a very talented and creative person, and his shop is always filled with the most interesting people.  You get the feeling in this shop that life is  HEY, WHY NOT!   I love going here.  It is really interesting–a long way from my world high in the Rocky Mountains.

I check out PETER ELLIS, BOOKSELLERS every visit.  He had a 1702 Queen Anne Bible last year for sale in the window.  I couldnt get back that afternoon, but the next morning I rushed to the shop only to find that someone from Beaverton, Oregon, had bought it.  Isn’t it funny how we remember the ITEMS WE DIDN’T BUY almost more than the ones we have acquired and taken home.  Oh well, I am on the look out for another Bible that will satisfy.  Can’t have too many Bibles, I suppose.  Reading them–well, that’s another matter.  Peter Ellis has a fine 18th century leather bound volume, very handsome, on 18th century morals and mores, but I decided that was a bit too much for me at this stage in my life, and I am sure my 15 year-old grandson Charlie would not appreciate it in his Christmas stocking.

WATKIN’S BOOKS has a wonderful selection of new publications.  I like the shop because he stocks the kinds of books I read.  I am not much for the flying jets blowing up smugglers in the jungles of Africa or those exaggerated novels about New York whores who get fined for one reason or another, but a fabulous biography about Vita Sackvile West or Emerald Cunard is right down my line.  I find my books here in WATKIN’S BOOKS.  Thank goodness!  I can tell you the atmosphere is very different from the BARNES AND NOBLE at home where I inquired about the new biography about Samuel Pepys and got the reply:  WHO?

At the end of Cecil Court, there isa shop for clothing to wear at ASCOT.  I love this shop. I have bought several sport coats here over the years and even a few umbrellas.  I somehow have resisted a high hat suitable for Ascot but a bit out of place walking down the streets of Salt Lake.  I do shop here and the quality has been fantastic, and I have even tried on some of the “monkey suits” that are found in the Victorian engravings I buy from Tim at Storey’s.

Cecil Court is a special place.  It is no place for a teenage high school tour bus with kids thinking they will find ripped jeans attempting to be hip.  There are plenty of places elsewhere for that.  Cecil Court is a place where nostalgia and the world-gone-by still linger in profusion.  I love yellowed pages of an old book and AH that old dusty smell.  I really love engravings with the water stains in the corners about some long-forgotten courtesan or member of Parliament who once dominated London society gossip.  I think there is something in all of us that yearns for years gond by.  Well, this is the place to come.  THERE ARE NO DISCUSSIONS ABOUT PARLIAMENT BALANCING THE BUDGET UNLESS IT IS THE GOVERNMENT OF QUEEN VICTORIA’S DISRAELI.

Wander down Cecil Court.  You will do yourself a real favor. Leave the kids at the HARD ROCK CAFE unless you are the lucky ones to have that one sensitive child who loves to wander through old dusty pages of books about times long gone.  Wonderful.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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A WALK DOWN NEW ROW, COVENT GARDEN, LONDON WC2

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 1:06 am

THERE ARE A FEW OF THE OLD LONDON STREETS STILL IN EXISTENCE FOR THE PLEASURE OF PEOPLE WHO LIKE THE OLD WORLD OF THE “SHOPS.”

I like to wander to PAUL’S for a pastry and see if that old Adder’s-Fang Manager is still running the place;  she is the “lady” who chased me out of her shop because I was taking photos for my blog last August.  Therefore, I named her ADDER’S FANG–at least her name has Shakespeare to define her mean ways.  Anyway, I snapped my photo before she could “dragon fang” my head off.  Really funny, actually.  I got the photo and the French pastry and escaped safely.  What an old……

I walkwd along to Scott’s where Mrs Moore and I have had breakfast and lunch for years.  The owner “Big Scott” is over his ovens toasting his bread, slicing his fabulous salt pork, or filling a prawn salad jacket potato.  Every once in awhile, he has the most wonderful lasagna which goes so quickly.  BUT HIS SALT BEEF SANDWICHES are without equal.

I like this Scott guy.  He has made his world, and he is a neighborhood hero is a lot of ways.  He is a great addition to this old street, and he is certainly a real contribution to my London visits.  I would imagine he was a rugby player in his day.

On to GIOVANNI’S RESTAURANT which a friendly customer has declared is his wife’s favorite London restaurant–it’s on the board.  GIOVANNI’S is a small family concern that serves the best Italian food.  It is all homemade and hot from the kitchen.  The two waiters wear their white jackets, and the center table is piled high with fruit, vegetables, and cheese.  A really great spot.

LAIRD LONDON is a small hat shop.  It is a typical Victorian family enterprise.  I love coming here.  The lady fitted me with two hats, and while I was deciding on which ones I wanted, she was reading my blog.  The owner came in, and we all had a good time.  I ended up with my fall hat and my winter hat, and smiled as I walked out of the shop.  The only thing different in today’s shop and the shop of Victorian times is the King Charles Spaniel is not sitting in the window in his basket.  But I have my Rosie at home, so in my mind he comes along.

THE OLD SWEET SHOPPE is just an amazing experience.  The walls are lined with every kind of candy you can imagine.  THIS IS AN OLD VICTORIAN SHOP if I ever saw one.  Yes, there were lots of kids in this shop starting at the age of 45.  I assure you, this is a very happy place.  My grandfather would have bought his licorice squares here when he lived in London in the 1880′s.

Now to DRURY’S for teas and coffees.  This shop has been here for years.  What I like to do is step in and let the aromas take over.  Coffee and tea from all over the world!!  The English like their hot drinks–I mean really hot–and they know their teas.  People are in the shop talking about South American coffee beans, Asian teas, green tea, breakfast teas, on and on.  But the SMELLS are the thing that grab me.  I love to watch people’s faces as they walk out the door with their little bag of specialty tea.  They are all assured that they have the best aroma for their afternoon high tea.  Boy oh boy, GOOD OLD ENGLAND.  In so many ways, it hasn’t changed in centuries.

Like so many English streets, the pub is on one corner and the magazine shop is on the other orner.  THE ANGEL AND CROWN PUB sits at the bottom of New Row.  On a warm afternoon, the lads sit outside with their pints and friends.  Some read the paper from across the street, and some are there to meet their friends.  The English pub is the social gathering spot, and let me tell you, the topics of conversation are serious stuff.  When it is FOOTBALL  (SOCCER) season, the ARSENAL boys are in one spot while the CHELSEA LADS ARE QUITE SOME DISTANCE AWAY.  THE MANCHESTER UNITED BOYS ARE PROBABLY NOT ALLOWED AT THIS PUB.   Really can get Hot Conversation here sometimes.  I don’t know about the beer, but there is a lot of it–pint after pint.  Amazing place.  Great fun.  I am in no hurry either.  I was standing outside enjoying the scene when a lad came up to me–I was somewhat blocking the doorway.  He said  DON’T BE SHY.  I suppose I needed to get my pint.  It made me smile.

To the creditof this street, in the 18th century, Thomas Chippendale had his furniture workshop at the bottom of this street–where it joins St. Martin’s Lane.  The Pub has a dining area named after Chippendale; and to his honor, there is an elegant bronze plaque which honors this GREAT OF GREATS. Imagine, I WALKED TODAY WHERE CHIPPENDALE WALKED.  Isn’t there something which binds us all and makes us better folks.  CHIPPENDALE –WOW!  The man who made four chairs which my family is lucky to have owned for nearly two centuries.  Here he was!

I love this walk.  Today is Saturday, and I am having my salt pork sandwhich as I wander over to St. Paul’s Cathedral to pay respects to Sir Christopher Wren.  I will just sit in the Cathedral and hope someone will play the organ.  I will certainly thank God that somehow these buildings have survived.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 16, 2010

BERKELEY SQUARE –A NIGHTINGALE SANG IN BERKELEY SQUARE

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 7:41 pm

The great SQUARES of London are the perfect places for people to gather.  In the 18th century when these squares were laid out, lovely Georgian houses for the rich and powerful lined these parks/squares, and beautiful trees and lawns added to the sophisticated settings.  Berkeley Square was laid out in the 18th century and was designed by our old buddy WILLIAM KENT.  The great PLANE TREES that we see in the SQUARE today were planted in 1789 and are some of the oldest trees in London’s parks.  This park is the perfect setting for the NIGHTINGALES TO SING;  however, I have never heard or seen one in Berkeley Square.  The song has certainly made the square famous around the world, however.

Let’s take a little walk around the SQUARE starting on the east side.  There are wonderful sandwich shops, and Lloyd’s Bank, and then a real destination:  JACK BARCLAY’S BENTLEY DEALERSHIP.  I am not a “car man,” but this is different.  The fabulous doors with Jack Barclay’s monogram are still in place and open in a very friendly way to a world of motoring in vehicles which have to be classified as works of art.  I walked into the showroom and was greeted by Richard Foley who is a sales executive at the Bentley dealership.  He was friendly and informative and told me about the magnificent cars that were on the floor–some selling for 264,000 pounds.   That gets your attention even if you aren’t a “car man.”  THESE CARS ARE SIMPLY EXQUISITE.  By the way, there is a souvenir BENTLEY FOUNTAIN PEN which sells for a mere 7,000 pounds and even 50 pence on top of that!  But, what a pen.  I bet they give you one of those if you buy the large covertible touring car!  But for me, what I enjoyed most was a visit to JACK BARCLAY’S original BOARD ROOM with a drinks closet and all–paneling and all the trimmings.  Really beautiful.  If you are walking around the square on one of your wanderings, don’t miss this.

Further up the street is located DAVID AARON – ANCIENT ARTS.

This beautiful shop offers ancient sculpture and artifacts.  I noticed today that the owner has added rare Persian rugs to his offerings.  I must admit that these truly beautiful sculptures are over my head, but I love to look at them.

Going on around to the west side, the home of George Canning – English statesman from 1770-1827 has its blue historical plaque as does the house next door where CLIVE OF INDIA lived 1725-1777.

All the Georgian pedestal lamps are in place at the house entrances, and the facades are guarded treasures of the country.  It is like someone saying to me:  AH, THIS IS THE HOUSE WHERE SANTA CLAUS LIVES!  But this is even better–imagine reading a plaque that confirms THAT THIS IS THE HOUSE WHERE CLIVE OF INDIA LIVED.  It is hard to get your head around all this history in such a small area.  BUT THERE IT IS! in all its splendor.

I enjoy the dedicated park benches, the old red phone boxes, some added modern sculpture to bring the park into the 21st century in a subtle way, and finally the beautifully manicured pea gravel walks.  RIGHT OUT OF THE 18TH CENTURY.

As far as I am concerned THE NIGHTINGALE STILL SINGS IN BERKELEY SQUARE, and I am enjoying every minute of it.  If you want to get away for a couple of hours one day, this is the place to come with a sandwich and a Jane Austen novel!  Wow! No sign of a rock band here!

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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August 3, 2010

LONDON’S RICHLY DECORATED CHURCH STEEPLES

Filed under: Art and Sculpture,LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 11:39 am

WALKING WITH A PURPOSE is the most rewarding way to see London.  LONDON is a walking city.  So, let’s walk with a purpose to see the RICHLY DECORATED CHURCH STEEPLES that dot the beautiful London skyline.  LET’S VISIT FOUR STEEPLES AND PEEK INSIDE and then look for others as we have time.

ST. MARTIN IN-THE-FIELDS on Trafalgar Square was designed by James Gibbs in 1721.  The clock at the base of the steeple was installed in 1756 and has been running ever since.  The steeple is an elegant structure and is one of London’s most familiar “faces.”  I am attaching a picture of the magnificent church and a beautiful image of the interior.  STEEPLE #1 is a perfect way to get excited about the next steeple on your WALK WITH A PURPOSE.

ST. MARY-LE-BOW   was designed by Sir Christopher Wren, and the famous steeple has a copper dragon on top.  It was built in 1671.  A true cockney is born within earshot of the sound of the Church’s bells.  Beautiful–right in the heart of the City of London.   STEEPLE #2 IS A MUST VISIT.

ST. BRIDE’S – has Sir Christopher Wren’s tallest steeple–4 octagonal tiers built in 1672.  The steeple of this church on Fleet Street is reputed to be the inspiration of the tiered wedding cake.  And BRIDES…….  The church was greatly damaged during World War II from German bombers.  I love this steeple.  After the City is quiet at night, I enjoy walkig around St. Bride’s Church;   it is truly beautiful.  STEEPLE #3 – A SUCCESSFUL VISIT.

ST. GEORGE’S BLOOMSBURY by Nicholas Hawksmoor has a steeple which has a checkered history. The figure at the top is KingGeorge I in a Roman toga, and the heraldic figures of Lions and Unicorns symbolize the struggle of the Hanoverian kings coming to England after the death of Queen Anne.  The dramatic steeple with its many steps was altered by the Victorians who felt its theme was too profrane for a religious structure–so the beasts were removed.  The tower has now been restored to its former glory.  This is a stunning STEEPLE.  Have a look;  you will enjoy it.  STEEPLE #4

WHAT A WALK WITH A PURPOSE:  LONDON’S RICHLY DECORATED CHURCH STEEPLES.

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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July 29, 2010

STREET ART – WAKING TOURS Wow!

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 6:57 am

Thomas Moore   email:  TMooreSr@me.com    Telephone:  801.791.9918

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July 8, 2010

WALKING TOUR: MOZART IN LONDON

Filed under: LONDON WALKS,Music — tmooresr @ 8:35 am

mozart-01
imagesWOLFGANG AMADEUS MOZART (1756-1791) lived in London from 23 April 1764 until 30 July 1765 while he wrote his first two symphonies and regularly performed before admiring audiences.

His father, Leopold, a violinist at the court of the Archbishop of Salzburg, realized that his two gifted children, Wolfgang and Maria Anna, could earn as child prodigies more than he could as a court violinist.  Therefore, they embarked on a tour of European courts.

Wolfgang arrived in London as a charming eight-year old prodigy and drew admirers from every part of society.   THIS WALKING TOUR FOLLOWS IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF MOZART IN LONDON.

We begin at Ranelagh Gardens, Chelsea–situated between the Embankment and Chelsea Bridge Road.  The Chelsea Flower Show is held annually on the site in late May.  In the 18th century, the gardens were known as RANELAGH PLEASURE GARDENS.  For an entrance fee of 12p anyone could stroll around the ornamental lake, admire the Chinese Pavilion, and listen to a variety of music.  In the center of the Gardens stood the ROTUNDA, a wooden structure larger than the Coliseum in Rome, with private sitting rooms and gaming tables.  It was modeled on the great church of St Sophia in Constantinople.

mozartcollageHere on 29 June 1764 Mozart performed his compositions on the harpsichord and organ at a benefit concert in aid of a newly established maternity hospital.  The entrance fee was five shillings.

Respected musicians and composers such as Thomas Arne gave annual concerts here.  During Mozart’s concert there was also music by Handel from three of his oratorios and the Coronation theme.

Serious attention at a public concert was a rarity.  People felt at liberty to talk through the music and if they became restless to stroll about.

WALKING EAST TO JUNCTION OF EBURY BRIDGE ROAD AND PIMLICO ROAD……

ORANGE SQUARE, PIMLICO

There is a sculpture of the young Mozart with his violin in Orange Square.  In 1764 this was an open area with sheep and donkeys grazing and market gardens providing local vegetables.

WALKING NORTH UP TO EBURY STREET…..

180 EBURY STREET, BELGRAVIA

Leopold moved his family here on 5 August 1764 to recuperate from a chill and sore throat caught at an open-air concert at the Earl of Thanet’s home in Grosvenor Square.  A blue plaque commemorates the Mozart stay.

Wolfgang+Amadeus+Mozart+Mozart+3In order to occupy himself Mozart composed his first two symphonies, K16 and K19.  His sister sat by his side reminding Mozart to give the horn something worthwhile to do.

MHWWALKIG NORTH-EAST TO…

THE QUEEN HOUSE (now Buckingham Palace)

In 1764 this was a much smaller building on what was then the edge of town.  George III bought Buckingham House in 1761 as a family home within convenient distance to St. James’s Palace which at the time was the official and ceremonial royal residence.

King George changed the name of Buckingham House to the QUEEN’S HOUSE.  The Mozarts performed here for King George III and Queen charlotte three times during their stay.  Leopold wrote that the graciousness with which their Majesties received us cannot be described…their easy manner and friendly ways made us forget that they were the King and Queen of England.”

Picture 1Leopold published Mozart’s SIX SONATAS FOR THE HARPSICHORD AND VIOLIN at this time, dedicating them to Queen Caroline.

Buckingham Palace became the official royal residence on the accession of Queen Victoria in 1832 after substantial alterations to the building.

STROLL IN…..

ST. JAMES’S PARK

Here the Mozarts strolled among the deer and saw the local strumpets plying their trde.  They were passed by the royal carriage and greeted by the King who opened the carriage window to nod and wave his hand at the family.

FEEL LIKE A BREAK?  CROSS THE MALL AND PASS ST. JAMES’S PALACE ON YOUR WAY TO…THE GOLDEN LION, 25 KING ST, ST. JAMES’S.

A Golden Lion Tavern khas stood on this site since 1762.  The current pub was completed in 1900.  Next door used to stand St. James’s Theatre (demolished in 1957) which explains the theatrical theme running through the pub including the Theatre Bar upstairs.  This upstairs Bar contains some artefacts from the former theater.

THEN CONTINUE THE WALK NORTH-EAST TO PICCADILLY CIRCUS AND….

WHITE BEAR INN (NOW CRITERION RESTAURANT), 224 PICCADILLY

On 23 April 1764 the Mozart family arrived at the WHITE BEAR, the well-known coaching inn that stood on this site.  The family had been seasick on the crossing from France;  Leopold, always with an eye on his finances, wrote to his friend Hagenauer:  ”Thank God we have safely crossed…yet not without making a heavy contribution in vomiting.  But we saved money which would have been spent on emetics.”

THEN WALK DOWN HAYMARKET TO…

HER MAJESTY’S THEATRE, HAYMARKET

During the 1764-65 season the Mozarts saw Johan Christian Bach’s opera ADRIANO IN SIRIA at the King’s Theatre which was rebuilt in 1791 and is now called HER MAJESTY’S.  J.C. Bach was the Queen’s music master and befriended the young composer.

case10.1Mozart also took singing lessons here from Giovanni Manzuoli, a resident singer and one of the most famous male sopranos of the time.  In 1771 Manzuoli came out of retirement to create the title role in Mozart’s ASCANIO IN ALBA, in Milan, which Mozart composed when he was only fifteen.

BACK UP HAYMARKET AND ALONG SHAFTESBURY AVENUE TO…

21 FRITH STREET, SOHO

The Mozarts lodged here at what was 15 Thrift Street with Thomas Williamson, a maker of corsets (a staymaker).  tkhe original building was demolished and rebuilt in 1858.

In June 1765, with money at a low, Leopold presented his prodigies almost as circus performers:  the public wee invited in to hear the children play and to test Mozart by giving him anything to play at sight, or any music without bass, which he will write upon the spot.

The writer and essayist William Hazlitt and the artist John Constable also lodged in Frith Street.  Hazlitt died at 6 Frith Street (now Hazlitt’s Hotel) in 1830 and is buried at St. Anne’s where there is a memorial.

ALSO OF INTEREST
7 PRINCES STREET, MARYLEBONE

The Mozarts visited John Zumph’s  music shop here, at the sign of the “Golden Guittar,” in 1764 and 1765.  Zumph was a close friend of JC. Bach (JS BACH”S son).  The first square piano  was made on these premises in 1766.

MOZART IN LONDON,  Fantastic.  Have a good walk.

Wolfgang+Amadeus+MozartThanks,

Tom

http://www.londonconnection.com

June 16, 2010

WINDSOR GREAT PARK – the Ultimate Walk with a View

Filed under: LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 9:50 pm

449px-Windsor_German_wiki_GNU-Martin_MorgensternA perfect Sunday afternoon can be spent in WINDSOR GREAT PARK.  If you are coming from London by car, take the M4 to Windsor, but turn off at Datchet and proceed on to Old Windsor.  If you are coming by train, the train will bring you right into the heart of the town of Windsor.  Whichever way you come, you will want to start your walk at the King George IV Gate on the south side of the Castle.  There you will find the beginning of the LONG WALK which is three miles long, all the way to SNOW HILL and the equestrian stature of KING GEORGE III

800px-Panorama_from_Snow_HillThe parkland is a popular recreation area for visitors and owned by the CROWN ESTATES.  THE LONG WALK was laid out by Charles II in the 1660′s, and the trees were planted by William of Orange in the 1680′s.  The entire park was put under cultivation during World War II.

THE LONG WALK offers some of the most magnificent views of Windsor Castle and the beautiful country round.  The Park is actually a deer park and was once used as the hunting grounds for the Kings of England.  As a Crown Property, it is cared for by Parliament; however, the rolling hills and lovely woods are greatly identified with the Royal Family:  ROYAL LODGE, VIRGINIA WATER, MAUSOLEUM OF FROGMORE, FROGMORE HOUSE, THE FORT, CUMBERLAND LODGE.

402px-CopperHorse_WindsorTHE EQUESTRIAN STATUE OF GEORGE III as a Roman General was placed atop SNOW HILL about 1830 and is truly beautiful from many views.    I remember when I was a school boy and on a student tour to England with my classmates, our group went to Windsor via Old Windsor.  The guide told all of us to have our cameras ready as we crossed the LONG WALK because the best views of the Castle and of SNOW HILL would be coming up shortly.  My first impressions were WOW.  My impressions to this day are still WOW!

399px-George3equestrianThe entire park is a peaceful retreat, close to Windsor, yet far enough away to give the feeling that you are deep in the English countryside, miles and miles from London.  On Royal Ascot Day, the Royal Family and their guests will ride from Windsor Castle along the LONG WALK to Ascot for the most glamorous day of the London social calendar.  But those who just want to enjoy an aftermoon, this is a fabulous option for a wonderful afternoon walk.

I am posting a few images of the LONG WALK with views to the Equestrian Statue of George III and to Windsor Castle in the other direction.  I can assure you of one thing, King George III would never have consented to his Roman outfit, riding his pracing horse high on top of SNOW HILL.

Enjoy.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

June 11, 2010

GEORGE V – A Truly Constitutional Monarch — His Statue Behind Westminster Abbey

Filed under: BRITISH HISTORY,LONDON WALKS,The Royal Family — tmooresr @ 11:22 am

437px-King_George_V_1911_color-cropQueen Elizabeth II called him GRANDPA ENGLAND.  Georgina Battiscombe called him the SAILER KING.  The King’s equerry called him A GRAND OLD KING.  At the time of the King’s Silver Jubilee in 1925, the King was stunned by the crowd’s affection at the Jubilee Parade;  he said I CANNOT UNDERSTAND IT, AFTER ALL I AM ONLY A VERY ORDINARY SORT OF FELLOW.  Well, his subjects didn’t see him this way.  In fact, George V was the epitome of a Constitutional Monarch who did his duty well.  Let’s talk about this grand man with a very “rough” voice.

During your walk around Westminster Abbey and the Houses of Parliament, you will notice a large marble statue of KING GEORGE V with his back to the Abbey and facing Parliament.405px-Westminster_king_george_v_statue_1 As young people pass by this statue, they have no idea of this King’s service to his country.  Well, let me introduce you to George Frederick Ernest Albert, HM King George V, the last king of the House of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha and the first KING OF THE HOUSE OF WINDSOR.  He was the last Emperor of India who loved stamp collecting, conventionality,  game shooting, a very private life–what most people would call A DULL LIFE.  He was not much interested in SOCIETY–he left all that to his very social son EDWARD, later Edward VIII and then Duke of Windsor.  One can probably say he was at war with the 20th century.  His values were Victorian, and he was as reliable and steady as gold itself.

600px-1914_Sydney_Half_Sovereign_-_George_VKing George V never wanted to be king.  He wanted to be in the Royal Navy, smoke cigarettes and cigars,and sail his yacht.  But there was a change of events which certainly altered the course of history.  Prince Albert Victor, Duke of Clarence, was George’s older brother. He was engaged to Princess Mary of Teck who had been hand-picked by Queen Victoria and Queen Alexandra–mostly to keep the wayward Prince in line.   Six months after the engagement was announced, Prince Albert died of pneumonia, leaving George second in line to the throne and likely to succeed after his father, Edward VII.  Queen Victoria still felt that Princess Mary was a suitable consort and encouraged her second grandson, George, to propose to Mary.  After a suitable period of mouring, the engagement was announced and theY were married on 6 July, 1892 in CHAPEL ROYAL in St. James’s Palace, London.  They were an inhibited yet loving couple that expressed their affection through notes and loving letters–THEY DID HAVE SIX CHILDREN.  Princess Mary eventually became QUEEN MARY who was the “soutiens George” who helped her husband face the difficult challenges of World War I, the murder of his beloved cousin Tsar Nicholas II, the Delhi Durbar, Ireland Home Rule, the dropping of German titles and the renaming of the Royal House, the death of his son Prince John, the AUTONOMOUS COMMUNITIES WITHIN THE BRITISH EMPIRE, the world-wide DEPRESSION, and the rise of the NAZI party in Germany.  KING GEORGE’s reign was one of the most difficult periods in British history, and his beloved Consort, Queen Mary, was his unfailing consort.

george-v-marySeveral years ago, I met a Canadian gentleman who offered our family KING GEORGE V’s sword which the King carried when he was at the Front in France during World War I.  The King was thrown off his horse and broke his hip.  His equerry apparently retrieved the sword and brought it to Canada where it had been for nearly fifty years before being offered to our family.  This was a great old King, and I am honored to own a piece of his history.  The problem is WHERE DOES IT BELONG WHEN I AM GONE?  A museum?  A grandson?  Big decision here.

georgevThe King’s one great regret was the handling of his Russian cousins.  Tsar Nicholas II was the King’s cousin.  They had been close all their lives.  Their mothers Queen Alexandra and the Tsarina Maria Feodorovna were sisters.  When the Tsar was overthrown in the Russian Revolution in 1917, the British Government offered asylum to the Tsar and his family, but worsening conditions for the British people, and fears that revolution might come to the British Isles, led King George to think that the presence of the Russian Imperial Family might seem inappropriate under the circumstances.  The Tsar and his immediate family remained in Russia and were murdered by the Bolsheviks in 1918.    The King never forgave himself.  But, the following year, Nicholas’s mother, Maria Feodorovna and other members of the extended Russian Imperial Family were rescued from the Crimea by British war ships.   Can you imagine how relieved the King’s mother, Queen Alexandra, was to hear that at least her sister had been rescued.  The two dowager consorts lived together for the rest of their lives in Marlborough House , London, and in a home they owned together in their native Denmark.

During the General Strike of 1926 the King advised the Government of Stanley Baldwin against taking inflammatory action and took exception to suggestions that the strikers were “revolutionaries’ saying TRY LIVING ON THEIR WAGES BEFORE YOU JUDGE THEM–a statement never forgotten by his subjects for the rest of the King’s life.  This unassuming man loved most his modest home at YORK COTTAGE on the Sandringham Estate–I think it sums up beautifully who this wonderful man really was.800px-York_CottageCanada_1_cent_1930

GEORGE V was a great old King.  On your walk past his statue near Parliament, tip your hat in respect to a King WHO DID HIS DUTY.

This King’s history should be part of one of your walking tours.125px-George_V_Signature.svg

Thanks,

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

June 10, 2010

LORD NELSON – REMEMBERED IN OUR TIME

Filed under: BRITISH HISTORY,LONDON WALKS — tmooresr @ 1:29 pm

494px-HoratioNelson1200px-Horatio_Nelson_Signature.svgFor all visitors to London, TRAFALGAR SQUARE is the center of everything.  NELSON’S COLUMN causes one to pause and then look up toward heaven in pure gratitude for the HERO OF TRAFALGAR.  After your pause, carry on with your walk toward St. Paul’s Cathedral.  With Lord Nelson on your mind, when you arrive at the the great cathedral you will immediately be drawn to the great memorial to Horatio Nelson, 1st Viscount Nelson, 1st Duke of Bronte.  Again using the words of Rupert Friend:  WHAT A GREAT MAN HE MUST HAVE BEEN TO HAVE SUCH A MEMORIAL IN HIS MEMORY.

LORD NELSON THE HERO OF TRAFALGAR has had volumes after volumes written about him.  I have been enjoying the movie MASTER AND COMMANDER with Russell Crowe.  Throughout the movie, the references to Lord Nelson have intrigued me, and I realize that my knowledge of this great Admiral is lacking.  I don’t intend to write an extensive history here;  rather, I am including some brief details and then attaching some of the most magnificent  images which speak greater than words.

800px-Luny_Thomas_Battle_Of_The_Nile_August_1st_1798_At_10pmLord Nelson was born into a moderately prosperous Norfolk family and joined the navy through the influence of his uncle.  He rose quickly through the ranks and served with leading naval commanders of the period before obtaining his own command in 1778.  He developed a reputation in the service through his personal valor and firm grasp of tactics but suffered periods of illness and unemployment after the end of the American War of Independence.  The outbreak of the French Revolutionary Wars allowed Nelson to return to service where he was particularly active in the Mediterranean.  He fought in several minor engagements off Toulon and was important in the capture of Corsica and subsequent diplomatic duties with the Italian States.  In 1797, he distinguished himself while in command of HMS CAPTAIN at the Battle of St Vincent.  Then came the BATTLE OF SANTA CRUZ DE TENERIFE where he lost his right arm and returned to England.

489px-Surrender_of_the_San_Nicolas_at_St_Vincent

The following year, Nelson had a decisive victory at the BATTLE OF THE NILE.  In 1801, he won another victory at the BATTLE OF COPENHAGEN.  On 21 October, 1805, the Franco-Spanish fleet came out of port, and Nelson’s fleet engaged them at the BATTLE OF TRAFALGAR.  The battle was Britain’s greatest naval victory, but Nelson was hit by a French sharpshooter and mortally wounded.  His body was brought back to London where he was accorded a state funeral in St Paul’s Cathedral.

800px-Fall_of_NelsonLord Nelson was noted for his ability to inspire and bring out the best in his men:  THE NELSON TOUCH.  He was elegant, vain, and sought recognition, but he was patriotic, dutiful, and courageous as noted in contemporary newspapers.

800px-Turner,_The_Battle_of_Trafalgar_(1822)The Admiral was wounded several times in combat, losing one arm and the sight in one eye.  His death at Trafalgar secured his position as one of England’s most heroic figures.

800px-Trafalgar-Auguste_MayerWhen you are in St. Paul’s taking in all the splendor, stand by the memorial to Lord Nelson and drop your head  for a moment in gratitude .  You are in the presence of a great man.  Imagine having the major SQUARE in one of the greatest cities in the world named after your achievement and a column placed in the center carrying your name.

360px-Nelson's_Column,_Trafalgar_Sq,_London_-_Sep_2006As we mentioned in an earlier blog, even Adolf Hitler admired this great Admiral.  It was Hitler’s plan to defeat Britain in World War II and then remove NELSON’S COLUMN to Berlin.  WELL, THE BRITISH WERE HAVING NONE OF THAT –FOR SURE.  My father told me that when World War II in Europe was over, the crowds went wild in TRAFALGAR SQUARE.  I think Lord Nelson would have loved that very much.  HOW FITTING.

NelsonTombWhat a wonderful memorial and a tomb in the vaults with the great DUKE OF WELLINGTON – the Iron Duke.  I am attaching NELSON’s flags signifying EVERY MAN MUST DO HIS DUTY.220px-England_Expects_Signal.svg

The final painting is very moving.  It is the APOTHEOSIS OF LORD NELSON with Britannia sending him on his way to Heaven with Neptune lifting the Admiral to the presence of God.  ABSOLUTELY BEAUTIFUL.

503px-Apotheosis_of_Nelson
Wonderful moments.

Thomas Moore

http://www.londonconnection.com

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