A walk down NEW BOND STREET after high tea at the Ritz will get your attention immediately. Jewelry is an art, a craft in the finest sense of the word. I enjoy seeing the displays (and guards) in such shops as TIFFANY, MOIRA, ADLER, CHOPARD, HARRY WINSTON, VANCLEEF, and GRAFF. It is definitely other worldy, but it is fun to make believe sometimes. It is amazing to me see these gallery windows with such magnificent creations. I thought you would enjoy seeing them as well. I don’t suggest you purchase, but I do encourage you to have a look. These creations are really fine works of art.
ENJOY!
Thomas Moore email: TMooreSr@me.com Telephone: 801.791.9918
In 1953, the Queen was given beautiful AQUAMARINES from the President of Brazil as a coronation gift. First came the necklace and earrings. A few years later the bracelet was added to the set. Finally, Garrards was ordered by the Queen to complete the set with a magnificent tiara, using stones given by the governor of Sao Paolo. I wanted to post images of this magnificent set which the Queen often wears and enjoys. I have to say, Her Majesty is certainly daring in her designs. This elaborate parure worn by a very diminutive lady is really quite wonderful. Well, if you’ve got it, WEAR IT. Right? Enjoy the photo. It is amazing. Hopefully, one day, the Queen will exhibit the AQUAMARINES at the QUEEN’S GALLERY at Buckingham Palace.
THE QUEEN MOTHER’S EMERALD NECKLACE in this image is an enigma. I have seen photographs of the Queen Mother wearing this spectacular set of emeralds twice, but its history seems to be a mystery. It is not listed in the Queen’s inventory of jewels, Queen Mary who loved emeralds never wore it, Queen Alexandra was never photographed or painted wearing it, and there is no mention of it in Queen Victoria’s inventory of jewels left to the crown–to her heirs descending. So, where did it come from?
I am always on the look-out for exciting experiences for my readers. The Sotheby’s sale of the jewelry once belonging to the Duke and Duchess of Windsor will be one of the most amazing auctions–November 30, 2010, London. Goodness, you don’t have to buy, but to be in the sale room watching this event will be an occasion you will never forget. I am posting some of the photographs that are being put out to the public to advertise this sale. These pieces of jewelry were auctioned several years ago after the death of the Duchess of Windsor, and now they are again surfacing. The atmosphere in the sale room will be electrifying. If you have ever wanted to attend an auction of this quality, this is the event. I predict that eventually these magnificent jewels will end up in a museum somewhere in the world. The pieces are so unusual and of such quality–they have such broad public interest. Also, the magnificent PRINCE OF WALES DIAMOND BROACH was bought by Elizabeth Taylor; let’s wait and see where that fabulous piece ends up. This is exciting stuff.
The famous TIMUR RUBY is one of the most beautiful jewels in the Queen’s private collection. This famous ruby is actually a spinel. It weighs over 352 carats and until 1851 was widely regarded as the largest known ruby in the world. Presented to Queen Victoria by the East India Company in October 1851 and remaining in the royal collection ever since, this stone has a long and colorful history.
Like many of the famous gems of the Orient, the TIMUR RUBY traveled to England amongst a collection of Indian Jewelry taken from the Lahore Treasury in 1849 when Britain annexed the Punjab to its Empire. Queen Victoria was well pleased by her gift–she particularly admired what she termed the “wonderful rubies” and on 23 October 1851 wrote in her journal: They are cabochons, uncut, unset, but pierced. The one is the largest in the world, therefore even more remarkable than the Koh-i-Nor (105 carats).
In Aprl 1853 Garrards set four of these so-called “rubies” in a new diamond-encrusted gold and enamel necklace of Oriental design with four diamond pendants also from Lahore. At the center of the necklace came te huge rose-pink stone of 352 carates that the Queen Victoria had especially noted. Two months later, Garrards adjusted the necklace to allow this stone to be detched for use as a brooch and to alternate with the recently recut Koh-i-nor Diamond.
This fabulous and unusual stone has remained in the Royal Collection. Even though Queen Victofria decided to alternate this broach with the Koh-i-nor, the broach was never worn. This is partly because the Queen did not wear or rarely wore colored stones after the Prince Consort’s death. The current Queen has never worn it either; however, there are rumors that she is considering having a dress made which would highlight this necklace. As of now, THE STONE IS A NO SHOW.
THE GRAND DUCHESS VLADIMIR’S TIARA is one of the Queen’s most interesting pieces of jewelry. The TIARA itself is one of the most exquisite examples of late 19th century Russian craftsmanship. The Grand Duchess was the grandest of the Grand Duchesses of the Imperial Court. She despised the Empress and set up an alternate court in the Vladimir Palace which dazzled the eyes of western visitors. She loved her pearls and her magnificent emeralds.
In 1918, the Grand Duchess and her family fled St. Petersburg and took refuge in the Caucus Mountains. Finally, in 1920, the family fled the country in an Italian ship to live in Venice. By the end of 1920, the Grand Duchess was living in Paris where she died later in the year.
The vast VLADIMIR jewel collection was hidden in the Vladimir Palace in St. Petersburg, undetected by the Bolsheviks. A member of the British Secret Intelligent Service who had befriended the Grand Duchess entered the Vladimir Palace and rescued the jewels which he smuggled out of Russia in a large diplomatic bag. The jewels were delivered to the Vladimir family in Paris where the Grand Duchess divided them between her children.
This prized tiara was given to Grand Duchess’s daughter the Princess Nicolas of Greece from whom Queen Mary acquired the jewel for her personal collection. It was given to Queen Elizabeth by her grandmother and now is one of the Queen’s favorite pieces of jewelry–with a very a long and eventful history.
When the jewel came into the hands of Queen Mary, who loved emeralds, she used the remainder of the CAMBRIDGE EMERALDS to alternate with the large baroque pearls which were original to the tiara. Queen Mary enhanced many of the jewels in her collection, so today her contribution to the Queen’s personal collection is remarkable.
I am posting pictures of the Grand Duchess wearing the Tiara, Queen Mary with the tiara, and several images of the Queen with her favorite jewel–with both pearls and emeralds.
Pieces of jewelry from the Queen’s collection have very interesting histories. They all have stories about how they came into collection. It is interesting to see the various pieces being worn by several Queens, generation after generation.
QUEEN ALEXANDRA’S STARBURST BROACH is a magnificent diamond creation, designed for a glamorous Queen who enjoyed the society of the EDWARDIAN AGE. Queen Victoria cautioned the Prince and Princess of Wales about extravagant styles, but Bertie and Alex would hear nothing of it. Marlborough House was the center of London society, and Edward and Alexandra held court in contrast to the dreary world of Buckingham Palace with a Queen who remained in mourning, year after year.
During the recent State Banquet at Windsor Castle for the President of France, the Queen wore her dazzling rubies: tiara, earrings, tiara. AND the ALEXANDRA STARBURST is brought out for this very elegant occasion.
I thought you would enjoy reading about this broach which the Queen will have on display at the QUEEN’S GALLERY this summer.
Tom
The STATE ROOMS at BUCKINGHAM PALACE will be open to the public starting 29 July until 29 September while the Queen is in Scotland. For visitors in London, this is one of the most interesting events of the summer season. After the State rooms, visitors will enjoy a special exhibit about the Queen’s Royal Tours. After you have gone through the palace, visit the the QUEEN’S GALLERY around the side of the palace where a most amazing VICTORIA AND ALBERT EXHIBITION is taking place. This year’s SUMMER OPENING will be one of the most interesting ever held at the Palace. Don’t miss it.
Tom
This seems to be the year of celebrations for the YOUNG VICTORIA. The movie THE YOUNG VICTORIA with Emily Blunt and Rupert Friend certainly contributed to the fun frenzy. Now the exhibition at the Queen’s Gallery about the young lives of Victoria and Albert is really exciting. I wanted to write a post about a piece of Queen Victoria’s jewelry which is a part of this theme.
Prince Albert had amazing talent in so many areas. He was involved in industry, education, social reform, constitutional monarchies, architecture, art, fresco, and jewelry. During their early lives together, the Prince designed a great deal of beautiful jewelry for the Queen. He designed a tiara with emeralds, now owned by the Earl of Harwood. He designed a tiara with sapphires, now owned by the Duke of Westminster. And he designed a third tiara with opals. This is the ORIENTAL CIRCLET TIARA now worn by the Queen.
When the Prince Consort died at the age of 41, the Queen never wore jewelery with colored stones again. So, the tiaras were unseen for nearly fifty years. Queen Alexandra inherited this tiara, but she removed the opals, believing they were bad luck. Queen Mary never wore the tiara. But the Queen Mother loved it and wore it with Queen Victoria’s rubies for many years. The following dramatic photograph of the Queen Mother wearing Queen Victoria’s tiara in Buckingham Palace was taken by Cecil Beaton and is an amazing image. When the Queen Mother died at 101 years of age, the Queen retained this beautiful jewel.
This tiara best exemplifies the jewelry of Queen Victoria and Prince Albert’s early years together. Hopefully, the Queen will place it in the Queen’s Gallery for the new exhibition about the lives of Victoria and Albert together.
The EMPRESS EUGENIE and NAPOLEON III became friends of Queen Victoria. When the French Imperial Family went into exile, they were invited to live in England as guests of Queen Victoria. The Emperor Napoleon III, the Empress, and their son the Prince Imperial are all buried in England. The Empress lived a long life, more than 90 years old, and died in 1920.
The Empress Eugenie had a passion for beautiful jewels. Her famous pearl and diamond tiara contained the largest natural pearl in the world. Her long five strands of pearls were admired. She and the ladies of the Imperial Court were magnificently dressed and often the subject of spectacular paintings, especially by Winterhalter.
Recently, Queen Elizabeth II has on two occasions worn a feather broach with a large sapphire and diamonds. She wore the broach to Royal Ascot which sent all the “royal watchers” scurrying trying to figure the broach’s history. It is a spectacular piece of jewelery and was given by the Empress Eugenie while she lived in exile in England to Queen Mary, then the Duchess of York, upon her marriage to the future King George V in 1893. This spectacular broach was left by Queen Mary to her granddaughter, the current Queen Elizabeth II.
I am attaching a page from a publication which shows some of the jewels which were wedding gifts to Queen Marry. Other than the wedding gifts from Queen Victoria and the Empress, the jewels were comparatively simple when compared to the elaborate collections Queen Mary left to her children when they were married.
Well, that is the story of the Queen’s SAPPHIRE FEATHER BROACH.
The Queen has worn this sapphire and diamond feather broach on two occasions lately. The Queen has not been seen wearing this broach for a very long time. Can any identify it and tell us how it came into the personal jewel collection of the Queen?
The JEWELS AT THE TOWER OF LONDON are on everyone’s itinerary for their visit to London. Without question, they are magnificent. But, one of the most historic jewels is the STUART SAPPHIRE which often goes unnoticed because it is located at the back of the IMPERIAL STATE CROWN. Let me tell you about its history.
This 104 carat cabochon sapphire belonged to ROBERT II ( grandson of Robert the Bruce), first monarch of the Stuart Dynasty of Scotland in 1371. The SAPPHIRE remained in the hands of the Stuart Dynasty for nearly 400 years and went into exile with James II in 1688. It came to England with James I and left England with his grandson James II when he fled to France. James II’s grandson returned to England and gave the STUART SAPPHIRE to King George III in 1800 in gratitude for the King’s pension to his Stuart relation Cardinal Stuart, the end of the Stuart line.
So, when you are admiring the IMPERIAL STATE CROWN at the Tower of London, be sure you look carefully at the 104 carat STUART SAPPHIRE at the back of the crown. It is one of the most historic and symbolic stones in the crown and has a 700-year connection to the kings and queens of England and Scotland.
Wow! What history. There is so much written about the Crown Jewels, but I wanted to be sure my readers did not overlook the STUART SAPPHIRE which has an amazing history: the history of the union of Scotland and England. Perfect.
In 1887 Queen Victoria celebrated 50 years on the throne with her GOLDEN JUBILEE. At that time, the WOMEN OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE each gave between a penny and a pound to provide a memorial for Victoria’s 50 years on the throne. Part of the money raised funded a large equestrian statue of PRINCE ALBERT, and the remainder was used to create the GOLDEN JUBILEE NECKLACE. The centerpiece can be detached and worn as a pendant, although no one has ever done that. Queen Victoria left the necklace to the Crown in 1901.
The necklace is often on display at the Queen’s Gallery, so keep you eyes open. It is really exquisite–pearls, diamonds. Wonderful.
Thomas Moore
THIS WILL BE A FUN ONE! A glittering exhibition of paste and other jewelry dating from the golden years of the 18th centuries will be staged by S.J. PHILLIPS Ltd. 139 NEW BOND STREET, LONDON from Tuesday 15 June to Tuesday 29 June 2010. Founded in 1869, S.J.PHILLIPS is a leading dealer in antique and modern silver, jewelry, and objets de vertu.
Paste jewelry is part of a tradition dating back to antiquity when craftsmen discovered that glass could provide a fine substitute for the color, brilliance, and splendor of expensive gemstones. Roman writers, describing the passion of rich men and women for gold jewelry set with emeralds and pearls imported from the East, remarked that those who could not afford genuine gems sought the same effect. Similarly in the Middle Ages, when wealth was also expressed by the possession of valuable gold and jewelry, there was a demand for substitutes met by the glass makers of Bohemia, Venice, and Paris. Glass appears in the collections of Elizabeth I, Mary Queen ofScots, Queen Anne (wife of James I), the first Duchess of Marlborough and, among others in France, Henry IV.
Demand for paste continued to increase in the early 19th century and, between 1810 and 1830, a fashion for bright colors in dress as well as jewelry eclipsed paste “diamonds.” Parures of matching sets of imitation amethyst, topaz, emerald and sapphires survive to illustrate this taste. Over the years, much old jewelry has been broken up for the stones, particularly parures, so paste survivals are of great interest.
In 1869, QUEEN MAGAZINE stated the case for “sham” jewelry: ”If the profession or career of the husband requires that his wife should go much into society on a small income, she would be perfectly justified in wearing imitations to save money…it cannot be wrong for a lady who cannot afford and has not inherited them to wear a moderate amount of paste.” The article added that she would not give the impression that her “jewels” were of any value. Humorous.
What an interesting exhibition. Nice
My wife and her circle of lady friends have great fun making bracelets and necklaces out of buttons. THEY HAVE BOXES FILLED WITH BUTTONS: MOP, Glass, coral, silver, jade, ivory, on and on. One of the ladies sews buttons on a band of black velvet for chokers–they think they are absolutely fabulous, and they are!
When we are in London, my wife disappears from time to time in search of fabulous buttons for her sewing ladies. She has found a source for glass Eastern European buttons in London, and a couple pounds of those buttons will keep the five ladies stitching for hours. When I come home for lunch, there are often three or four ladies designing button jewelry–they all look like Betsy Ross with their needles and thread/snippets buzzing away.
I get a real laugh out of them; they say they are getting an entire collection together to sell at the State Fair or at the Fashion Fair in the fall.
They have several sources for these beautiful buttons, but they love THE BUTTON QUEEN at their new shop at 76 Marylebone Lane WlU 2PR, London. Telephone: 020 7935 1505. They are open from 10:00 am to 5:00 pm (4pm Saturday). The ladies tell me this is the only shop they know of that specializes in antique buttons.
After a tiring day of wandering around London, Stephanie and her BUTTON friends who are with her spend the evening watching British comedy and sorting their buttons. One of the ladies has a velvet jacket which is entirely covered in her glass buttons. Another lady wears a button bandeau to tie her hair back. I assure you, I read a good biography about Ben Jonson or Churchill, but the ladies are like chirping angels with their handfuls of buttons.
BUTTON, BUTTON–WHO HAS THE BUTTON? The button shops do, I am told, and the best of these shops is Martyn and Isabel Frith’s shop THE BUTTON QUEEN.
HUSBANDS, run for the woods–the women are into “high art.” IF YOU DON’T VANISH, YOU WILL LOSE YOUR BUTTONS, FOR SURE.